NATIONAL  PARKS 
PORTFOLIO 


N TERIOR 


BANCROFT 
LIBRARY 

<> 

THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


DEPARTMENT  OF  THE   INTERIOR 

JOHN  BARTON  PAYNE,  SECRETARY 


NATIONAL    PARK    SERVICE 

STEPHEN  T.  MATHER,  DIRECTOR 


THE 

NATIONAL  PARKS 
PORTFOLIO 


BY 

ROBERT   STERLING   YARD 


GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

1921 


NOTE  TO  THIRD  EDITION 

HE  first  edition  of  the  National  Parks  Portfolio,  which  numbered 
275,000  copies,  was  issued  by  the  Department  of  the  Interior  in 
June,  1916.  The  second  edition,  brought  up  to  date  by  the  substi- 
tution of  later  photographs  and  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  thirty - 
six  pages,  was  one  of  the  first  publications  of  the  new  National  Park  Service, 
which  Congress  created  August  25,  1916.  This,  the  third  edition,  contains 
twenty-two  additional  pages  of  pictures.  It  shows  fifty  pictures  not  included 
in  former  editions. 

Acknowledgments  are  due  to  the  many  photographers,  professional  and 
amateur,  who  contributed  some  of  the  best  examples  of  their  work  to  this 
Portfolio;  to  the  United  States  Geological  Survey  for  assistance  and  hearty 
cooperation;  to  many  helpful  individuals;  and  to  seventeen  Western  railroads, 
whose  contribution  of  forty-three  thousand  dollars  made  possible  its  first 
publication. 

ROBERT  STERLING  YARD 


FOR  SALE  BY  SUPERINTENDENT  OF  DOCUMENTS 
GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE,  WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 
BOOK  BOUND  IN  CLOTH  .  ONE  DOLLAR 


(2) 


DEPARTMENT  OF  THE  INTERIOR 

JOHN  BARTON  PAYNE,  SECRETARY 


T 


NATIONAL  PARK  SERVICE 
STEPHEN  T.  MATHER,  DIRECTOR 

INTRODUCTION 

O  BUILD  a  railroad,  reclaim  lands,  give  new  impulse  to  enterprise, 
and   offer   new   doors   to   ambitious   capital — these   are   phases   of 
the  ever-widening  life   and  activity  of  this  Nation.     The  United 
States,  however,  does  more;  it  furnishes  playgrounds  to  the  peo- 
,  pie  which  are,  we  may  modestly  state,  without  any  rivals  in  the  world.     Just 

•  as  the  cities  are  seeing  the  wisdom  and  necessity  of  open  spaces  for  the  chil- 
dren, so  with  a  very  large  view  the  Nation  has  been  saving  from  its  domain 

;  the  rarest  places  of  grandeur  and  beauty  for  the  enjoyment  of  the  world. 

And  this  fact  has  been  discovered  only  recently  by  many.  Europe  being 
closed,  thousands  for  the  first  time  have  crossed  the  continent  and  seen  one  or 
more  of  the  national  parks.  That  such  mountains  and  glaciers,  lakes  and  can- 

•  yons,  forests  and  waterfalls  were  to  be  found  in  this  country  was  a  revelation  to 
r  many  who  had  heard  but  had  not  believed.     It  would  appear  from  the  ex- 
perience of  the  past  year  that  the  real  awakening  as  to  the  value  of  these  parks 
;  has  at  last  been  realized,  and  that  those  who  have  hitherto  found  themselves 
1  enticed  by  the  beauty  of  the  Alps  and  the  Rhine  and  the  soft  loveliness  of  the 

valleys  of  France  may  find  equal  if  not  more  stimulating  satisfaction  in  the 
Tnountains,  rivers,  and  valleys  which  this  Government  has  set  apart  for  them 
and  for  all  others. 

There  is  no  reason  why  this  Nation  should  not  make  its  public  health  and 
scenic  domain  as  available  to  all  its  citizens  as  Switzerland  and  Italy  make 
theirs.  The  aim  is  to  open  them  thoroughly  by  road  and  trail  and  give  access 
and  accommodation  to  every  degree  of  income.  In  this  belief  an  effort  is 
making  now  as  never  before  to  outfit  the  parks  with  new  hotels  and  public 
camps  which  should  make  the  visitor  desire  to  linger  rather  than  hasten  on 
his  journey.  One  large  hotel  has  been  projected  in  the  Valley  of  the  Yosemite; 
a  fine  new  hotel  stands  on  Glacier  Point,  while  more  modest  lodges  have 
been  dotted  about  in  the  obscurer  spots  to  make  accessible  the  rarer  beauties 
of  the  inner  Yosemite.  For,  with  the  new  Tioga  Road,  which,  through  the 
generosity  of  Mr.  Stephen  T.  Mather  and  a  few  others,  the  Government  has 
acquired,  there  is  to  be  revealed  a  new  Yosemite  which  only  John  Muir  and 
others  of  similar  bent  have  seen.  This  is  a  Yosemite  far  different  from  the 
quiet,  incomparable  valley.  It  is  a  land  of  forests,  snow,  and  glaciers.  From 

(3) 


Mount  Lyell  one  looks,  as  from  an  island,  upon  a  tumbled  sea  of  snowy  peaks. 
Its  lakes,  many  of  which  have  never  been  fished,  are  alive  with  trout.  And 
through  it  foams  the  Tuolumne  River,  a  water  spectacle  destined  to  world 
celebrity. 

A  new  hotel,  accompanied  by  adequate  camping  facilities,  has  been  built 
on  a  shoulder  of  Mount  Rainier,  in  Paradise  Valley;  and  roads  are  projected  to 
open  up  the  northern  side  of  this  wonderful  ice  mountain.  New  roads  and 
trails  are  building  in  the  Glacier  National  Park,  and  new  hotels  are  projected  to 
make  accessible  portions  of  this  scenic  wilderness  of  incomparable  magnificence. 

While  as  the  years  have  passed  we  have  been  modestly  developing  the 
superb  scenic  possibilities  of  the  Yellowstone,  nature  has  made  of  it  the  largest 
and  most  populous  game  preserve  in  the  Western  Hemisphere.  Its  great  size, 
its  altitude,  its  vast  wildernesses,  its  plentiful  waters,  its  favorable  conforma- 
tion of  rugged  mountain  and  sheltered  valley,  and  the  nearly  perfect  protec- 
tion afforded  by  the  policy  and  the  scientific  care  of  the  Government  have 
made  this  park,  since  its  inauguration  in  1872,  the  natural  and  inevitable  cen- 
ter of  game  conservation  for  this  Nation.  There  is  something  of  significance 
in  this.  It  is  the  destiny  of  the  national  parks,  if  wisely  controlled,  to 
become  the  public  laboratories  of  nature  study  for  the  Nation.  And  from 
them  specimens  may  be  distributed  to  the  city  and  State  preserves,  as  is 
now  being  done  with  the  elk  of  the  Yellowstone,  which  are  too  abundant,  and 
may  be  done  later  with  the  antelope. 

If  Congress  will  but  make  the  funds  available  for  the  construction  of  roads 
over  which  automobiles  may  travel  with  safety  (for  all  the  parks  are  now  open 
to  motors)  and  for  trails  to  hunt  out  the  hidden  places  of  beauty  and  dignity, 
we  may  expect  that  year  by  year  these  parks  will  become  a  more  precious 
possession  of  the  people,  holding  them  to  the  further  discovery  of  America 
and  making  them  still  prouder  of  its  resources,  esthetic  as  well  as  material. 

JOHN  BARTON  PAYNE, 

Secretary  of  the  Interior. 


(4) 


T 


PRESENTATION 

HIS  Nation  is  richer  in  natural  scenery  of  the  first  order  than  any 
other  nation;  but  it  does  not  know  it.  It  possesses  an  empire 
of  grandeur  and  beauty  which  it  scarcely  has  heard  of.  It  owns 
the  most  inspiring  playgrounds  and  the  best  equipped  nature 
schools  in  the  world  and  is  serenely  ignorant  of  the  fact.  In  its  national 
parks  it  has  neglected,  because  it  has  quite  overlooked,  an  economic  asset  of 
incalculable  value. 

The  Nation  must  awake,  and  it  now  becomes  our  happy  duty  to  waken  it 
to  so  pleasing  and  profitable  a  reality.  This  portfolio  is  the  morning  call  to 
the  day  of  realization. 

Individual  features  of  several  of  our  national  parks  are  known  the  world 
over;  but  few  to  whom  the  Yosemite  Valley  is  a  household  word  know  that 
its  seven  wonderful  miles  are  a  part  of  a  scenic  wonderland  of  eleven  hundred 
square  miles  called  the  Yosemite  National  Park.  So  with  the  Yellowstone; 
all  have  heard  of  its  geysers,  but  few  indeed  of  its  thirty-three  hundred  square 
miles  of  wilderness  beauty.  Some  of  the  finest  of  our  national  parks  here 
pictured  you  probably  have  never  even  heard  of.  The  Sequoia  National 
Park,  a  hundred  miles  south  of  the  Yosemite,  one  of  the  noblest  scenic  areas 
in  the  world,  is  the  home  of  more  than  a  million  sequoias,  the  celebrated  Big 
Trees  of  California;  but  even  its  name  is  known  to  few.  The  Crater  Tvake 
National  Park  encloses  the  deepest  and  bluest  lake  in  the  world  surrounded 
by  walls  of  pearly  fretted  lavas  of  indescribable  beauty — a  very  wonder  spot; 
but  it  is  probably  least  known  of  all. 

The  main  object  of  this  portfolio,  therefore,  is  to  present  to  the  people  of 
this  country  a  panorama  of  our  national  parks  and  national  monuments  set 
side  by  side  for  their  study  and  comparison.  Bach  park  will  be  found  highly 
individual.  The  whole  will  be  a  revelation. 

This  is  the  first  really  representative  presentation  of  American  scenery 
of  grandeur  ever  published,  perhaps  ever  made.  The  selection  is  from  photo- 
graphs collected  during  a  period  of  many  months  from  all  available  sources, 
and  represents  the  most  striking  work  of  many  photographers. 

The  portfolio  is  dedicated  to  the  American  people.  It  is  my  great  hope 
that  it  will  serve  to  turn  the  busy  eyes  of  this  Nation  upon  its  national  parks 
long  enough  to  bring  some  realization  of  what  these  pleasure  gardens  ought  to 
mean,  of  what  so  easily  they  may  be  made  to  mean,  to  this  people. 

STEPHEN  T.  MATHER, 

Director,  National  Park  Service. 


(5) 


THE    NATIONAL    PARKS    AT    A    GLANCE 

Number,  19;  Total  Area,  10,859  Square  Miles.     Arranged  chronologically  in  the  order  of  their  creation. 


NATIONAL    PARK 
and  Date 

LOCATION 

AREA 
in 
square 
miles 

DISTINCTIVE  CHARACTERISTICS 

HOT  SPRINGS  RES- 
ERVATION 
1832 

Middle 
Arkansas 

ttf 

46  hot  springs  possessing  curative  properties  —  Many  hotels 
and  boarding  houses  in  adjacent  city  of  Hot  Springs  — 
Bathhouses  under  public  control. 

YELLOWSTONE 

1872 

North- 
western 
Wyoming 

3.348 

More  geysers  than  in  all  rest  of  world  together  —  Boiling 
springs  —  Mud  volcanoes  —  Petrified  forests—  Grand  Canyon 
of  the  Yellowstone,  remarkable  for  gorgeous  coloring  — 
Large  lakes  and  waterfalls  —  Wilderness  inhabited  by  deer, 
elk,  bison,  moose,  antelope,  bear,  mountain  sheep,  etc. 

YOSEMITE 

1890 

Middle 
eastern 
California 

i,  125 

Valley  of  world-famed  beauty  —  Lofty  cliffs  —  Romatic  vis- 
tas—Waterfalls of  extraordinary  height  —  3  groves  of  big 
trees  —  Large  areas  of  snowy  peaks  —  Waterwheel  falls. 

SEQUOIA 

1890 

Middle 
eastern 
California 

252 

The  Big  Tree  National  Park  —  12,000  sequoia  trees  over  10 
feet  in  diameter,  some  25  to  36  feet  in  diameter. 

GENERAL  GRANT 
1890 

Middle 
California 

4 

Cheated  to  preserve  the  celebrated  General  Grant  Tree,  35 
feet  in  diameter  —  6  miles  from  Sequoia  National  Park. 

MOUNT  RAINIER 
1899 

West 
central 
Washington 

324 

Largest  accessible  single-peak  glacier  system  —  28  glaciers, 
some  of  large  size  —  48  square  miles  of  glacier,  50  to  1,000 
feet  thick  —  Remarkable  subalpine  wild-flower  fields. 

CRATER  LAKE 
1902 

Southern 
Oregon 

249 

Lake  of  extraordinary  blue  in  crater  of  extinct  volcano,  no 
visible  inlet,  or  outlet  —  Sides  1,000  feet  high. 

WIND  CAVE 
1903 

South 
Dakota 

17 

Large  natural  cavern. 

PLATT 

1904 

Southern 
Oklahoma 

iK 

Sulphur  and  other  springs  possessing  curative  properties  — 
Under  Government  regulation. 

SULLYS  HILL 
1904 

MESA  VERDE 
1906 

North 
Dakota 

Southern 
Colorado 

iK 

77 

Wooded  hilly  tract  on  Devils  Lake. 

Most  notable  and  best  preserved  prehistoric  cliff  dwellings 
in  United  States,  if  not  in  the  world. 

GLACIER 
1910 

North- 
western 
Montana 

i.  534 

Rugged  mountain  region  of  unsurpassed  alpine  character  — 
250  glacier-fed  lakes  of  romantic  beauty  —  60  small  gla- 
ciers —  Peaks  of  unusual  shape  —  Precipices  thousands  of 
feet  deep  —  Fine  trout  fishing. 

ROCKY  MOUNTAIN 
J9i5 

Northern 
Colorado 

398 

Heart  of  the  Rockies—  Snowy  Range,  peaks  11,000  to  14,250 
feet  altitude—  Remarkable  records  of  glacial  period. 

HAWAII 
1916 

Hawaii 

118 

Two  active  volcanoes,  Mauna  Loa,  largest  in  the  world, 
and  Kilauea,  whose  lake  of  bubbling  lava  is  world  famed  — 
A  third  volcano,  Haleakala,  crater  8  miles  wide. 

LASS  EN  VOLCANIC 
1916 

MOUNT  McKiNLEY 
1917 

Northern 
California 

South 
central 
Alaska 

124 

2,  2OO 

Active  volcano  —  Lassen  Peak,  10,437  ^ee^  in  altitude  — 
Cinder  Cone,  6,907  feet  —  Hot  springs  —  Mud  geysers. 

Highest  Mountain  in  North  America  —  Rises  higher  above 
surrounding  country  than  any  mountain  in  the  world. 

GRAND  CANYON 
1919 

LAFAYETTE 
1919 

ZlOM 

1919 

Northern 
Arizona 

Maine 
Coast 

South- 
western 
Utah 

958 

8 

I2O 

Greatest  example  of  stream  erosion  in  the  world  —  More  than 
10  miles  wide  —  More  than  i  mile  deep. 

Group  of  granite  mountains  rising  upon  Mount  Desert 
Island. 

Magnificent  gorge  (Zion  Canyon),  depth  from  800  to  2,000 
feet,  with  precipitous  walls,  of  great  beauty  and  scenic 
interest. 

(6) 


CONTENTS 


NATIONAL   PARKS 

NAME  PAGE 

CRATER  LAKE .-.'..     2  Diagrams,  24  Views  .     .107 

GENERAL  GRANT 3  Views 68 

GLACIER 26  Views 155 

GRAND  CANYON 25  Views 203 

HAWAII 9  Views 235 

HOT  SPRINGS  OF  ARKANSAS    ......     6  Views 226 

LAFAYETTE 5  Views 245 

LASSEN  VOLCANIC 2  Views 231 

MESA  VERDE     .     .    ." 31  Views 131 

MOUNT  McKiNLEY .2  Views 234 

MOUNT  RAINIER 26  Views 83 

PLATT  .     .     .     . .     .     . 244 

ROCKY  MOUNTAIN .     ...     .32  Views 179 

SEQUOIA  .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   -.     .     .     .     .26  Views 59 

SULLYS  HILL     .     ...    L    .......... 244 

WIND  CAVE  ........... 244 

YELLOWSTONE ,,    .     .  35  Views 1 1 

YOSEMITE 31  Views 35 

ZION .......     .6  Views 240 

NATIONAL   MONUMENTS 

PAGE  PAGE 

CAPULIN  MOUNTAIN    .     .     .     .     .  262  MAP  OF  PARKS  AND  MONUMENTS    .  266 

CASA  GRANDE    .     .     .     ...     .  262  NAVAJO     ...    -...-.     .     .     .     .  264 

CHACO  CANYON 259  NATURAL  BRIDGES      .....  258 

COLORADO 259  PAPAGO  SAGUARO  .     .     . .   .     .     .  262 

DEVILS  TOWER 256  PINNACLES 263 

DINOSAUR 260  PETRIFIED  FOREST 265 

EL  MORRO 262  RAINBOW  BRIDGE 261 

GRAN  QUIVIRA 264  SHOSHONE  CAVERN 259 

KATMAI 252  SITKA 265 

LEWIS  AND  CLARK  CAVERN      .     .  260  TUMACACORI ,.     .  264 

MONTEZUMA  CASTLE 256  VERENDRYE 262 

MUIR  WOODS .;•„.'.  257 


DIFFERENCE   BETWEEN   A  NATIONAL   PARK 
AND  A  NATIONAL  MONUMENT 

HE  difference  between  a  national  park  and  a  national 
monument  is  not  always  easy  to  define.  A  national  park 
is  created  by  Congress  with  the  implied  purpose  of  devel- 
opment by  appropriations  for  the  public  enjoyment.  A 
national  monument  is  proclaimed  by  the  President  to  conserve  some 
historical  structure  or  landmark,  or  some  restricted  area  of  unusual 
scientific  value;  there  is  no  presumption  of  development. 

A  national  park  is  supposed  to  have  park-like  area,  but  several  are 
very  small.  A  national  monument  is  supposed  to  be  confined  to  the 
object  conserved,  but  several  have  large  areas. 

The  act  of  August  25,  1916,  creating  the  National  Park  Service  and 
recent  appropriations  for  the  development  of  several  national  monuments 
tend  to  further  extinguish  differences. 

For  travel  purposes  it  may  be  assumed  that  all  national  parks  within 
the  United  States  are  ready  for  all  visitors,  including  motorists  in  their 
own  cars.  One  can  comfortably  reach  and  see  many  of  the  national 
monuments,  but  it  will  be  safer  to  make  special  inquiry  in  advance  of 
starting. 

(9) 


Photograph  by  J.  E.  Haynes,  St.  Paul 


OLD  FAITHFUL 


THE 

YELLOWSTONE 

NATIONAL 
PARK 


Photograph  by  J.  E.  Ifaynes,  St.  Paul 

THE  GREAT  FAILS  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONF,  NEARLY  TWICE  AS  HIGH  AS  NIAGARA 
Below  these  falls  the  river  enters  the  gorgeously  colored  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Yellowstone 

(12) 


Copyright,  1906,  by  W  S.  Berry 


ANTELOPE 


HE  Yellowstone  National  Park  is  the  largest  and  most  widely  cele- 
brated of  our  national  parks.     It  is  a  wooded  wilderness  of  thirty- 
three  hundred  square  miles.     It  contains  more  geysers  than  are 
found  in  the  rest  of  the  world  together.     It  has  innumerable  boiling 
springs  whose  steam  mingles  with  the  clouds. 

It  has  many  rushing  rivers  and  large  lakes.  It  has  waterfalls  of  great 
height  and  large  volume.  It  has  fishing  waters  unexcelled. 

It  has  canyons  of  sublimity,  one  of  which  presents  a  spectacle  of  broken 
color  unequaled.  It  has  areas  of  petrified  forests  with  trunks  standing.  It 
has  innumerable  wild  animals  which  have  ceased  unduly  to  fear  man;  in  fact, 
it  is  unique  as  a  bird  and  animal  sanctuary. 

It  has  great  hotels  and  many  public  camps.  It  has  two  hundred  miles  of 
excellent  roads. 

In  short,  it  is  not  only  the  wonderland  that  common  report  describes ;  it  is 
also  the  fitting  playground  and  pleasure  resort  of  a  great  people;  it  is  also  the 
ideal  summer  school  of  nature  study. 

(13) 


Photograph  by  George  R.  King 

THE  UPPER  FALLS  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE,  A  FEW  MILES  BELOW  YELLOWSTONE  LAKE 
Above  these  falls  the  rushing  river  lies  nearly  level  with  surrounding  country;  below  it  begin  the  canyons 


Photograph  by  George  R.  King 


CREST  OF  THE  LOWER  FALLS 


THREEFOLD  PERSONALITY 


HE  Yellowstone  is  associated  in  the  public  mind  with  geysers  only. 

T       Thousands   even   of   those   who,    watches   in   hand,    have   hustled 
from  sight  to   sight  over  the   usual  stage   schedules,   bring  home 
vivid  impressions  of  little  else. 
There  never  was  a  greater  mistake.     Were  there  no  geysers,  the  Yellow- 
stone watershed  alone,  with  its  glowing  canyon,  would  be  worth  the  national 
park.     Were  there  also  no  canyon,  the  scenic  wilderness  and  its  incomparable 
wealth  of  wild-animal  life  would  be  worth  the  national  park. 

The  personality  of  the  Yellowstone  is  threefold.  The  hot-water  manifes- 
tations are  worth  minute  examination,  the  canyon  a  contemplative  visit,  the 
park  a  summer.  Dunraven  Pass,  Mount  Washburn,  the  canyon  at  Tower 
Falls,  Shoshone  Lake,  Sylvan  Pass — these  are  known  to  very  few  indeed. 
See  all  or  you  have  not  seen  the  Yellowstone. 

05) 


Photograph  by  J.  E.  Haynes,  St.  Paul 

CASTLE  WELL,  ONE  OF  THE  INNUMERABLE  HOT  SPRINGS 
\          These  springs,  whose  marvelously  clear  water  is  a  deep  blue,  have  an  astonishing  depth 


Photograph  by  Edward  S.  Curtis 

THE    C?ARVED   AND    FRETTED   TERRACES   AT  MAMMOTH    HoT   SPRINGS 

These  great  white  hills,  deposited  and  built  up  by  the  hot  waters,  sometimes  envelope  forest  trees 

(16) 


Photograph  by  J.  E  Haynes,  St.  Paul 


THE  GIANT  GEYSER,  IN  MANY  RESPECTS  THE  GREATEST  OF  ALL 
It  spouts  for  an  hour  at  a  time,  the  water  reaching  a  height  of  250  feet.     Interval,  six  to  fourteen  days 


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Photograph  by  J.  E.  Haynes,  St.  Paid 

ELECTRIC  PEAK,  A  SUPERB  LANDMARK  OF  THE  NORTH  SIDE 


MANY-COLORED    CANYON 

ROM  Inspiration  Point,  looking  a  thousand  feet  almost  vertically 
down  upon  the  foaming  Yellowstone  River,  and  southward  three 
miles  to  the  Great  Falls,  the  hushed  observer  sees  spread  before 
him  the  most  glorious  kaleidoscope  of  color  he  will  ever  see  in 
nature.  The  steep  slopes  are  inconceivably  carved  by  the  frost  and  the  ero- 
sion of  the  ages.  Sometimes  they  lie  in  straight  lines  at  easy  angles,  from 
which  jut  high  rocky  prominences.  Sometimes  they  seem  carved  from  the 
side  walls.  Here  and  there  jagged  rocky  needles  rise  perpendicularly  like 
groups  of  gothic  spires. 

And  the  whole  is  colored  as  brokenly  and  vividly  as  the  field  of  a  kaleido- 
scope. The  whole  is  streaked  and  spotted  in  every  shade  from  the  deepest 
orange  to  the  faintest  lemon,  from  deep  crimson  through  all  the  brick  shades 
to  the  softest  pink,  from  black  through  all  the  grays  and  pearls  to  glistening 
white.  The  greens  are  furnished  by  the  dark  pines  above,  the  lighter  shades 
of  growth  caught  here  and  there  in  soft  masses  on  the  gentler  slopes  and  the 
foaming  green  of  the  plunging  river  so  far  below.  The  blues,  ever  changing, 
are  found  in  the  dome  of  the  sky  overhead. 

(20) 


Copyright  by  llaynes,  St.  Paul 

SYLVAN  LAKE,  BELOW  SYLVAN  PASS,  CODY  ROAD 


Copyright  by  Gifford 

VIEW  FROM  MOUNT  WASHBURN  SHOWING  YELLOWSTONE  I/AKE  IN  DISTANCE 

The  northern  east  side  is  a  country  of  striking  and  romantic  scenery  made  accessible  by  excellent  roads 

(ai) 


Photograph  by  J .  E.  Haynes 

THE  HOLY  CITY  FROM  THE  CODY  ROAD,  EASTERN  ENTRANCE 


Photograph  by  J,  E.  Haynes 

ENTERING  YELLOWSTONE  FROM  THE  SOUTH— LEWIS  FALLS 


Copyright  by  S.  N.  Leek 

THE  SOUTH  ENTRANCE  Is  NEAR  THE  LORDLY  TETON  RANGE,  JUST  OVER  THE  BOUNDARY 

(23) 


Copyright  by  J.  E.  Haynes,  St.  Paul 

STANDING  UPON  ARTIST'S  POINT,  WHICH  PUSHES  OUT  ALMOST  OVER  THE  FOAMING  RIVER 

YOU  INTO  THE  MOST  GLORIOUS  KALEIDOSC 


>USAND  FEET  BELOW,  THE  INCOMPARABLE  CANYON  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE  WIDENS  BEFORE 
IF  COLOR  You  WILL  EVER  SEE  IN  NATURE 

(as) 


Copyright  by  S.  N.  Leek 

THIRTY  THOUSAND  ELK  ROAM  THIS  SANCTUARY  WILDERNESS 


Photograph  by  Albert  SMechten 

IT  is  THE  NATURAL  HOME  OF  THE  CELEBRATED  BIGHORN,  THE  ROCKY-MOUNTAIN  SHEEP 

(26) 


Photograph  by  G.  Svianson 


DEER  MAKE  UNEXPECTED  SILHOUETTES  AT  FREQUENT  INTERVALS 

GREATEST  ANIMAL  REFUGE 


HE  Yellowstone  National  Park  is  by  far  the  largest  and  most  suc- 

Tcessful  wild-animal  preserve  in  the  world.  Since  it  was  estab- 
lished in  1872  hunting  has  been  strictly  prohibited,  and  elk,  bear, 
deer  of  several  kinds,  antelope,  bison,  moose,  and  bighorn  mountain 
sheep  roam  the  valleys  and  mountains  in  large  numbers.  Thirty  thousand  elk, 
for  instance,  live  in  the  park.  Antelope,  nearly  extinct  elsewhere,  here  abound. 
These  animals  have  long  since  ceased  to  fear  man  as  wild  animals  do  every- 
where except  in  our  national  parks.  While  few  tourists  see  them  who  follow 
the  beaten  roads  in  the  everlasting  sequence  of  stages,  those  who  linger  in  the 
glorious  wilderness  see  them  in  an  abundance  that  fairly  astonishes. 


ijg  i  JBipSj 


Photograph  by  S.  N.  Leek 

IN  WINTER  WHEN  THE  SNOWS  ARE  DEEP  PARK  RANGERS  LEAVE  HAY  IN  CONVENIENT  SPOTS 

(27) 


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(28) 


ANIMALS  REALLY  AT  HOME 


Photograph  by  Edward  S.  Curtis 

UNLIKE  THE  GRIZZLY,  THE  BROWN  BEAR  CLIMBS  TREES  QUICKLY  AND  EASILY 


ERY  different,  indeed,  from  the  beasts  of  the  after-dinner  story 
and  the  literature  of  adventure  are  the  wild  animals  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone. Never  shot  at,  never  pursued,  they  are  comparatively 
as  fearless  as  song-birds  nestling  in  the  homestead  trees. 
Wilderness  bears  cross  the  road  without  haste  a  few  yards  ahead  of  the 
solitary  passer-by,  and  his  accustomed  horses  jog  on  undisturbed.  Deer  by 
scores  lift  their  antlered  heads  above  near  thickets  to  watch  his  passing.  Elk 
scarcely  slow  their  cropping  of  forest  grasses.  Even  the  occasional  moose, 
straying  far  from  his  southern  wilderness,  scarcely  quickens  his  long  lope. 
Herds  of  antelope  on  near-by  hills  watch  but  hold  their  own. 

.  Only  the  grizzly  and  the  mountain  sheep,  besides  the  predatory  beasts,  still 
hide  in  the  fastnesses.  But  even  the  mountain  sheep  loses  fear  and  joins  the 
others  in  winters  of  heavy  snow  when  park  rangers  scatter  hay  by  the  roadside. 

(29) 


Photograph  by  S.  N.  Leek 


THE  PARADISE  OF  ANGLERS 

HE  Yellowstone  is  a  land  of  splendid  rivers.  Three  watersheds  find 
their  beginnings  within  its  borders.  From  Yellowstone  Lake  flows 
north  the  rushing  Yellowstone  River  with  its  many  tributaries; 
from  Shoshone,  Lewis,  and  Heart  Lakes  flows  south  the  Snake 
River;  and  in  the  western  slopes  rise  the  Madison  and  its  many  tributaries. 
All  are  trout  waters  of  high  degree. 

The  native  trout  of  this  region  is  the  famous  cutthroat.     The  grayling  is 
native  in  the  Madison  River  and  its  tributaries.     Others  have  been  planted. 
Besides  the  stream  fishing,  which  is  unsurpassed,  the  lakes,  particularly 
Shoshone  Lake  and  certain  small  ones,  afford  admirable  sport. 


Photograph  by  J.  E.  Haynes,  St.  Paid 

A  BIG  LAKE  TROUT  FROM  SHOSHONE  LAKE 

The  game  cutthroat  is  the  commonest  trout  in  the  Yellowstone,  but  there  are  six  other  varieties 

(30) 


Photographby  J.  E.  Haynes  St  Paid 

CUTTHROATS  FROM  ONE  TO  THREE  OR  FOUR  POUNDS  ARE  TAKEN  IN  LARGE  NUMBERS 
AT  THE  YELLOWSTONE  LAKE  OUTLET 


Copyright  by  Gifford 


YOUNG  PELICANS  ON  MOLLY  ISLAND  IN  YELLOWSTONE  LAKE 
The  Yellowstone  pelicans  are  very  large  and  pure  white,  a  picturesque  feature  of  the  park 

(31) 


HOUSEKEEPING  IN  THE  OPEN 


Photograph  by  J.  E.  Haynes 


TROUTING  IN  YELLOWSTONE   LAKE 

(3*) 


THERE  ARE  ALSO  LARGE  PUBLIC  CAMPS 


LIVING  in  the  YELLOWSTONE 

HE  park   has  entrances   on  all   four   sides.     Three  have   railroad 
connections;  the  southern  entrance,  by  way  of  Jackson  Hole  and 
past  the  jagged  snowy  Tetons,  is  available  for  vehicles.     The  roads 
from  all  entrances  enter  a  central  belt  road  which  makes  a  large 
circuit  connecting  places  of  special  interest. 

Four  large  hotels  are  located  at  points  convenient  for  seeing  the  sights,  and 
are  supplemented  by  public  camps  at  modest  prices. 

But  the  day  of  the  unhurried  visitor  has  dawned.  If  you  want  to  enjoy 
your  Yellowstone,  if,  indeed,  you  want  even  to  see  it,  you  should  make  your 
minimum  twice  five  days;  two  weeks  is  better;  a  month  is  ideal. 

Spend  the  additional  time  at  the  canyon  and  on  the  trails.  See  the  lake 
and  the  pelicans.  Fish  in  Shoshone  Lake.  Climb  Mount  Washburn.  Spend  a 
day  at  Tower  Falls.  See  Mammoth  Hot  Springs.  Hunt  wild  animals  with  a 
camera.  Stay  with  the  wilderness  and  it  will  repay  you  a  thousandfold.  Fish 
a  little,  study  nature  in  her  myriad  wealth — and  live. 

The  Yellowstone  National  Park  is  ideal  for  camping  out.  When  people 
realize  this  it  should  quickly  become  one  of  the  most  lived  in,  as  it  already 
is  one  of  the  most  livable,  of  all  our  national  parks. 

65163  °— 21 3  (33) 


Photograph  by  J.  E.  Haynes,  St.  Paul 


OLD  FAITHFUL  INN 


M    II      I  »  I    II    III  II      Hill 
II      I  I     II       1  II  I    II     mmt  n       inn 


Copyright  by  J.  E.  Haynes,  St.  Paul 


THE  MAMMOTH  HOTEL 


Photograph  by  J.  E.  Haynes,  St.  Paul 


THE  LAKE  HOTEL 
THREE  OF  THE  FOUR  LARGE  HOTELS  IN  THE  YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK 

(34) 


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(35) 


Photograph  by  A .  C.  Pillsbury 

THE  HIGHEST  WATERFALL  IN  THE  WORLD— THE  YOSEMITF  FALLS 

The  Upper  Fall  measures  1,430  feet,  as  high  as  nine  Niagaras.     The  Lower  Fall  measures  320  feet 
The  total  drop  from  crest  to  river,  including  intermediate  cascades,  is  almost  half  a  mile 

(36) 


Photograph  by  V .  £>.  Reclamation  Service 

THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY  FROM  INSPIRATION  POINT,  SHOWING  BRIDALVEIL  FALLS 

LAND  of  ENCHANTMENT 

HO  does  not  know  of  the  Yosemite  Valley?  And  yet,  how  few 
have  heard  of  the  Yosemite  National  Park!  How  few  know  that 
this  world-famous,  incomparable  Valley  is  merely  a  crack  seven 
miles  long  in  a  scenic  masterpiece  of  eleven  hundred  square-miles! 
John  Muir  loved  the  Valley  and  crystallized  its  fame  in  phrase. 
But  still  more  he  loved  the  National  Park,  which  he  describes  as  including 
"innumerable  lakes  and  waterfalls  and  smooth  silky  lawns;  the  noblest  forests, 
the  loftiest  granite  domes,  the  deepest  ice-sculptured  canyons,  the  brightest 
crystalline  pavements,  and  snowy  mountains  soaring  into  the  sky  twelve  and 
thirteen  thousand  feet,  arrayed  in  open  ranks  and  spiry-pinnacled  groups  par- 
tially separated  by  tremendous  canyons  and  ampitheaters ;  gardens  on  their 
sunny  brows,  avalanches  thundering  down  their  long  white  slopes,  cataracts 
roaring  gray  and  foaming  in  the  crooked  rugged  gorges,  and  glaciers  in  their 
shadowy  recesses  working  in  silence,  slowly  completing  their  sculptures;  new- 
born lakes  at  their  feet,  blue  and  green,  free  or  encumbered  with  drifting  ice- 
bergs like  miniature  Arctic  Oceans,  shining,  sparkling,  calm  as  stars." 

(37) 


THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY  FROM  GLACIER  POINT 

The  Upper  and  Lower  Yosemite  Falls  are  here  shown  in  partial  profile 

(38) 


•aSfefe. 


Photograph  by  J.  T.  Boysen 


HALF  DOME,  FROM  NEAR  WASHINGTON  COLUMN 

Its  summit  is  4,892  feet  above  the  floor  of  the  Valley 

(39) 


Photograph  by  A .  C.  Pillsbury 

THE  SHEER  IMMENSITY  OF  THE  PRECIPICES  ON  EITHER  SIDE  THE  VALLEY'S  PEACEFUL  F 

QUALITY  OF  THE  EVER- VARYING 

(40) 


IE  ROMANTIC  MAJESTY  OF  THE  GRANITE  WALLS,  AND  THE  UNREAL,  ALMOST  FAIRYLIKE 
,E,  ATTEST  IT  INCOMPARABLE 


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EARLY  MORNING  BESIDE  MIRROR  LAKE 

This  lake  is  famous  for  its  reflections  of  the  cliffs.     Mount  Watkins  in  the  background 

(42) 


Copyrighted,  IQIO,  by  J.  T.  Boysen 

EL  CAPITAN  AT  SUNSET 
This  gigantic  rock,  whose  hard  granite  resisted  the  glacier,  rises  3,604  feet  from  the  Valley  floor 

(43) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 


BEAUTIFUL  VERNAL  FALLS 


first  view  of  most 
spots  of  unusual 
celebrity  often  falls 
short  of  expecta- 
tion, but  this  is  seldom,  if  ever, 
true  of  the  Yosemite  Valley. 
The  sheer  immensity  of  the 
precipices  on  either  side  of  the 
peaceful  floor;  the  loftiness  and 
the  romantic  suggestion  of  the 
numerous  waterfalls;  the  maj- 
esty of  the  granite  walls;  and 
the  unreal,  almost  fairy  quality 
of  the  ever-varying  whole  can 
not  be  successfully  foretold. 

This  valley  wras  once  a  tor- 
tuous river  canyon.  So  rapidly 
was  it  cut  by  the  Merced  that 
the  tributary  valleys  soon  re- 
mained hanging  high  on  either 
side.  Then  the  canyon  became 
the  bed  of  a  great  glacier.  It 
was  widened  as  well  as  deepened, 
and  the  hanging  character  of  the 
side  valleys  was  accentuated. 

This  explains  the  enormous 
height  of  the  waterfalls. 

The  Yosemite  Falls,  for  in- 
stance, drops  1,430  feet  in  one 
sheer  fall,  a  height  equal  to 
nine  Niagara  Falls  piled  one  on 
top  of  the  other.  The  Lower 
Yosemite  Fall,  immediately  be- 
low, has  a  drop  of  320  feet, 
or  two  Niagaras  more.  Vernal 
Falls  has  the  same  height.  The 
Nevada  Falls  drops  594  feet 
sheer,  and  the  celebrated  Bridal- 
veil  Falls  620  feet.  Nowhere 
else  in  the  world  may  be  had  a 
water  spectacle  such  as  this. 


(44) 


Photograph  by  H.  C.  Tibbilts 

ITS  NAME  Is  SELF-EVIDENT — THE  BRIDALVEIL  FALLS 

(45) 


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Photograph  by  H.  C.  Tibbilts. 


TENAYA  LAKE. 


A  STRIKING  VIEW  OF  NEVADA  FALLS,  LIBERTY  CAP  ON  LEFT 

(46) 


, 


Photograph  by  A.C.  PiUsbury 

VERNAL  AND  NEVADA  FALL'S  AND  HALF  DOME  FROM  THE  GLACIER  POINT  TRAIL 


Photograph  by  J.  T.  B 


A  BEND  IN  THE  BIG  OAK  FLAT  ROAD 

(47) 


CHARM  OF  THE  SCENIC  WILD 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

THE  GRIZZLY  GIANT,  THE  BIGGEST 
YOSEMITE  SEQUOIA 


UMMER  in  the  Yosemite  is 
unreal.  The  Valley,  with  its 
foaming  falls  dissolving  into 
mists,  its  calm  forests  hiding 
the  singing  river,  its  enormous  granites 
peaked  and  domed  against  the  sky,  its  in- 
spiring silence  haunted  by  distant  water, 
suggests  a  dream.  One  has  a  sense  of 
fairyland  and  the  awe  of  infinity. 

Imagine  Cathedral  Rocks  rising 
twenty-six  hundred  feet  above  the  wild 
flowers,  El  Capitan  thirty-six  hundred 
feet,  Sentinel  Dome  four  thousand  feet, 
Half  Dome  five  thousand  feet,  and 
Clouds  Rest  six  thousand  feet!  And 
among  them,  the  waterfalls! 

Even  the  weather  appears  impossi- 
ble; the  summers  are  warm,  but  not  too 
warm;  dry,  but  not  too  dry;  the  nights 
cold  and  marvelously  starry. 

A  few  miles  away  are  the  Big  Trees, 
not  the  greatest  groves  nor  the  greatest 
trees,  for  those  are  in  the  Sequoia  Na- 
tional Park,  a  hundred  miles  south,  but 
three  groves  containing  monsters  which, 
next  to  Sequoia's,  are  the  hugest  and  the 
oldest  living  things.  Of  these  the  Grizzly 
Giant  is  king — whose  diameter  is  nearly 
thirty  feet,  whose  girth  is  over  ninety- 
nine,  and  whose  height  is  more  than  two 
hundred.  Their  presence  commands  the 
silence  due  to  worship. 

Winter  is  becoming  a  feature  in  the 
life  of  the  Valley.  Hotels  are  open  to 
accommodate  an  increasing  flow  of  vis- 
itors. The  falls  are  still  and  frozen,  the 
trees  laden  with  snowy  burdens.  The 
greens  have  vanished;  the  winter  sun 
shines  upon  a  glory  of  gray  and  white. 

Winter  sports  are  rapidly  becoming 
popular  on  the  floor  of  the  Valley. 
(48) 


Photograph  by  J.  T.  Boysen 


SLEIGHING  AND  SKIING  IN  YOSEMITE 
Winter  sports  are  rapidly  becoming  popular  on  the  floor  of  the  Valley 


Photograph  by  J.  T.  Boysen 
65163° — 21 4 


SKATING  ON  ICE  ON  MIRROR  LAKE 
(49) 


LIVING  IN  THE  WILDERNESS 


Copyrighted,  igio,  by  J.  T.  Boy  sen 

WHO'S  COMING? 


Copyrighted,  1910,  by  J.  T.  Boy  sen 

WOOF! 


IVING  is  comfortable  in  the 
Yosemite.  Several  roomy  pub- 
lic camps,  and  a  fine  hotel  offer 
the  visitor  to  the  Valley  a 
choice  of  kind  and  price.  Above  the  Val- 
ley lodges  and  most  comfortable  camps 
occur  at  convenient  intervals  on  road  and 
trail.  There  is  a  new  hotel  on  Glacier  Point. 
These  improved  conditions  begin  the 
larger  development  of  the  Yosemite  Na- 
tional Park  which  the  Department  of  the 
Interior  has  planned  so  long  and  so  care- 
fully. It  has  there  inaugurated  a  model 
policy  for  all  the  national  parks.  The 
Yosemite  is  reached  from  Merced. 

The  Yosemite  is  an  excellent  place  to 
camp  out.  One  may  have  choice  of  many 
kinds  of  mountain  country.  Nearly  every- 
where the  trout  fishing  is  exceptionally 
fine.  Camping  outfits  may  be  rented  and 
supplies  purchased  in  the  Valley.  Garages 
for  motorists  and  rest-houses  for  trampers 
will  be  found  at  convenient  intervals. 

TIOGA  ROAD 

BOVE  the  north  rim  of  the 
valley  the  old  Tioga  Road, 
which  the  Department  of  the 
Interior  acquired  in  1915  and 
put  into  good  condition,  crosses  the  park 
from  east  to  west,  affording  a  new  route 
across  the  Sierra  and  opening  to  the  pub- 
lic for  the  first  time  the  magnificent  scenic 
region  in  the  north. 

The  Tioga  Road  was  built  in  1881  to  a 
mine  soon  after  abandoned.  For  years  it 
has  been  impassable.  It  is  now  the  gate- 
way to  a  wilderness  heretofore  accessible 
only  to  campers. 
(5°) 


NORTH  OF  THE  VALLEY'S  RIM 

EFORE  the  restored  Tioga  Road  made  accessible  the  magnificent 
mountain  and  valley  area  constituting  the  northern  half  of  the 
Yosemite  National  Park,  this  pleasure  paradise  was  known  to  none 
except  a  few  enthusiasts  who  penetrated  its  wilderness  year  after 
year  with  camping  outfits. 

This  is  the  region  of  rivers  and  lakes  and  granite  domes  and  brilliantly 
polished  glacial  pavements.  The  mark  of  the  glacier  is  seen  on  every  hand. 
It  is  the  region  of  small  glaciers,  remnants  of  a  gigantic  past,  of  which  there 
are  several  in  the  park.  It  is  the  region  of  rock-bordered  glacier  lakes  of 
which  there  are  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty.  It  is  the  region,  above  all, 
of  small,  rushing  rivers  and  of  the  roaring,  foaming,  twisting  Tuolumne. 

From  the  base  of  the  Sierra  crest,  born  of  its  snows,  the  Tuolumne  River 
rushes  westward  roughly  paralleling  the  Tioga  Road.  Midway  it  slants 
sharply  down  into  the  Tuolumne  Canyon  forming  in  its  mad  course  a  water 
spectacle  destined  some  day  to  world  fame. 


Photograph  by  H.  C.  Tibblit 


Photograph  by  W.  L.  Huber 

THE  HIGH  SIERRA:  VIEW  OF  MOUNT  RITTER  FROM  KUNA  CREST" 


Photograph  by  Herbert  W.  Gleason 

BEAUTIFUL  ROGERS  LAKE  AND  REGULATION  PEAK  IN  THE  NORTHERN  PART  OF  THE  PARK 

(54) 


Photograph  by  W,  L.  Huber 

SIERRA  CLUB  GETTING  DINNER  IN  TUOLUMNE   MEADOW 


Photograph  by  C.  O.  Schneider 


A   BED  CHAMBER  IN  YOSEMITE 


Travelers  on  the  trails  carry  no  tents  because  it  does  not  rain.     A  sleeping-bag,  a  pine-needle 
mattress,  a  sheltered  grove,  and  a  ceiling  of  green  leaves  amply  suffices. 

(55) 


I 


(56) 


Photograph  by  W .  L.  Huber 


THE  WATERWHEEL  BELOW  CALIFORNIA  FALLS 


MAD  WATERS  of  TUOLUMNE 

ONE  but  the  hardiest  climbers  have  clambered  down  the  Grand 
Canyon  of  the  Tuolumne  and  seen  its  leaping  waters. 

Here  the  river,  slanting  sharply,  becomes,  in  John  Muir's 
phrase,  "one  wild,  exulting,  onrushing  mass  of  snowy  purple  bloom 
spreading  over  glacial  waves  of  granite  without  any  definite  channel,  gliding  in 
magnificent  silver  plumes,  dashing  and  foaming  through  huge  bowlder  dams,  leap- 
ing high  in  the  air  in  wheellike  whirls,  displaying  glorious  enthusiasm,  tossing 
from  side  to  s.tde,  doubling,  glinting,  singing  in  exuberance  of  mountain  energy." 


Photograph  by  4 .  C.  Pillsbury 


A  PAIR  OF  TUOLUMNE  WATERWHEELS 

(57) 


THE     EVERLASTING    SNOWS 


UMMITS  of  perpetual 
snow  are,  for  most  Amer- 
icans, a  new  association 
with  Yosemite.  But  the 
region's  very  origin  was  that  Sierra 
whose  crest  peaks  on  the  park's  eastern 
boundary  still  shelter  in  shrunken  old 
age  the  once  all-powerful  glaciers. 

Excelsior,  Conness,  *  Dana,  Kuna, 
Blacktop,  Lyell,  Long — from  the  com- 
panionship of  these  great  peaks  de- 
scended the  ice-pack  of  old  and  de- 
scend to-day  the  sparkling  waters  of 
the  Tuolumne  and  the  Merced. 

From  their  great  summits  the 
climber  beholds  a  sublime  wilderness  of 
crowded,  towering  mountains,  a  con- 
trast to  the  silent,  uplifting  Valley  as 
striking  as  mind  can  conceive.  Ever- 
lasting snows  fill  the  hollows  between 
the  peaks  and  spatter  their  jagged 
granite  sides.  The  glaciers  feed  in- 
numerable small  lakes. 


Photograph  by  W .  L.  Huber 

ASCENDING  MOUNT  LYEI.I. 


Photograph  by  W.  L.  Huber 

CROSSING  SNOW  HUMMOCKS  IN  THE  ASCENT  OF  MOUNT  LYELL 

(58) 


THE   BIG  TREE   NATIONAL   PARK 
THE 

SEQUOIA 

NATIONAL    PARK 


Photograph  by  A.  C.  Pillsbwy 


MORNING  IN  THE  GIANT  FOREST 


(59) 


Photograph  by  Rodney  L.  Glisan 

VIEW  OF  THE  BIG  ARROYO  FROM  SAWTOOTH  PEAK 

(60) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Geological  Survey 

IT  Is  THE  IDEAL  PARK  FOR  CAMPING 

LAND  OF  GIANT  TREES 

ATURK'S  forest  masterpiece  is  John  Muir's  designation  of  the 
giant  tree  after  which  is  named  the  Sequoia  National  Park  in 
middle  eastern  California.  Here,  within  an  area  of  two  hundred 
and  thirty-seven  square  miles,  are  found  several  large  groves  of 
the  celebrated  Sequoia  Washingtoniana,  popularly  known  and  widely  celebrated 
as  the  Big  Tree  of  California. 

More  than  a  million  of  these  trees  grow  within  the  park's  narrow  confines, 
many  of  them  mere  babes  of  a  few  hundred  years,  many  sturdy  youths  of  a 
thousand  years,  many  in  the  young  vigor  of  two  or  three  thousand  years,  and 
a  few  in  full  maturity.  The  principal  entrance  is  Visalia,  California. 

Half  a  dozen  miles  away  is  the  General  Grant  National  Park,  whose  four 
square  miles  were  set  apart  because  they  contained  the  General  Grant  Tree, 
second  only  in  size  and  age  to  the  patriarch  of  all,  the  General  Sherman  Tree. 

On  Sequoia's  favored  slopes  grow  other  monsters  also.  It  is  the  park  of 
magnificent  trees  of  many  kinds,  and  it  is  the  park  of  birds. 

The  Sequoia  National  Park  is  the  gateway  to  one  of  the  grandest  scenic 
areas  in  this  or  any  other  land.  Over  its  borders  to  the  north  and  east  lies 
a  land  of  sublime  nobility  whose  wild  rivers  and  tortuous  canyons,  whose 
glacier-carved  precipices  and  vast  snowy  summits  culminating  in  the  supreme 
altitude  of  Whitney,  will  make  it  some  day  surpassed  in  celebrity  by  none. 


(61) 


THE  BIGGEST  THING  ALIVE 


thousand 
diameter. 


F  the  1,156,000  se- 
quoia trees,  old  and 
young,  which  form 
these  groves,  twelve 
exceed  ten  feet  in 
Muir  states  that  a 


Photograph  by  Lindley  Eddy 

THE  GENERAL  SHERMAN  TREE 
The  largest  and  oldest  living  thing  in  all  the  world 

(62) 


diameter  of  twenty  feet  and  a 
height  of  two  hundred  and 
seventy-five  is  perhaps  the 
average  for  mature  and  favor- 
ably situated  trees,  while  trees 
twenty-five  feet  in  diameter  and 
approaching  three  hundred  in 
height  are  not  rare. 

But  the  greatest  trees  have 
astonishing  dimensions: 

General  Sherman:  diameter, 
36.5  feet;  height,  279.9  feet- 

General  Grant:  diameter, 
35  feet;  height,  264  feet. 

Abraham  Lincoln:  diam- 
eter, 31  feet;  height,  270  feet. 

California:  diameter,  30 
feet;  height,  260  feet. 

George  Washington:  diam- 
eter, 29  feet;  height,  255  feet. 

A  little  effort  will  help  you 
realize  these  dimensions.  Meas- 
ure and  stake  in  front  of  a 
church  the  diameter  of  the  Gen- 
eral Sherman  Tree.  Then  stand 
back  a  distance  equal  to  the 
tree's  height.  Raise  your  eyes 
slowly  and  imagine  this  huge 
trunk  rising  in  front  of  the 
church.  When  you  reach  a  point 
in  the  sky  forty-five  degrees  up 
from  the  spot  on  which  you 
stand  you  will  have  the  tree's 
height  were  it  growing  in  front 
of  your  church. 


THE   OLDEST   THING   ALIVE 


HE  General  Sherman 

TTree  is  the  oldest 
living  thing.  At  the 
birth  of  Moses  it 
was  probably  a  sapling.  Its 
exact  age  can  not  be  determined 
without  counting  the  rings,  but 
it  is  probably  in  excess  of  thirty- 
five  hundred  years.  This  looks 
back  long  before  the  beginning 
of  human  history.  When  Christ 
was  born  it  was  a  lusty  youth 
of  fifteen  hundred  summers. 

There  are  many  thousands 
of  trees  in  the  Sequoia  National 
Park  which  were  growing  thrift- 
ily when  Christ  was  born;  hun- 
dreds which  were  flourishing 
while  Babylon  was  in  its  prime ; 
several  which  antedated  the  pyr- 
amids on  the  Egyptian  desert. 

John  Muir  counted  four 
thousand  rings  on  one  prostrate 
giant.  This  tree  probably 
sprouted  while  the  Tower  of 
Babel  was  still  standing. 

The  sequoia  is  regular  and 
symmetrical  in  general  form. 
Its  powerful,  stately  trunk  is 
purplish  to  cinnamon  brown 
and  rises  without  a  branch  a 
hundred  or  a  hundred  and  fifty 
feet — which  is  as  high  or  higher 
than  the  tops  of  most  forest 
trees.  Its  bulky  limbs  shoot 
boldly  out  on  every  side.  Its 
foliage,  the  most  feathery  and 
delicate  of  all  the  conifers,  is 
densely  massed. 

The  wood  is  almost  inde- 
structible except  by  fire. 


Photograph  by  IV.  L.  Huber 

THE  GENERAL  GRANT  TREE 
Second  in  size  and  age  only  to  the  General  Sherman  Tree 

(63) 


Photograph  by  George  F.  Belden 


"DEEP  IN  THE  WOODY  WILDERNESS" 


WILDERNESS  OF  MONSTERS 

ERSONS  who  have  seen  the  Mariposa  Grove  in  the  Yosemite  National 
Park  have  seen  sequoias  of  the  noblest  type;  but  only  in  the  Giant 
Forest  of  the  Sequoia  National  Park  will  they  see  them  in  the 
impressive  glory  of  massed  multitude  and  wildest  grandeur.  To 
walk  and  wonder  through  these  woods,  even  for  a  few  hours,  is  to  feel  an 
emotion  which  can  be  duplicated  nowhere  else. 

It  is  not  the  sequoias  alone,  as  in  the  Mariposa  Grove,  that  stir  the  soul, 
but  the  bewildering  and  climatic  repetition  of  monsters  rising  singly  and 
superbly  grouped  from,  a  dense  and  seemingly  endless  forest  of  noble  growths  of 
many  other  kinds. 

Without  the  sequoias  this  forest  would  be  notable.  With  their  constant 
unexpected  repetition  the  effect  is  dramatic,  even  breath-taking.  Many  of  the 
very  greatest  trees  are  happened  upon  casually  as  the  visitor  winds  through  the 
bush-grown  aisles  of  pine,  and  their  sudden  appearance  is  the  more  dramatic 
because  of  the  freedom  of  their  red  pillared  stems  from  the  bright  green  flowing 
moss  upon  the  trunks  and  branches  of  the  uncountable  pines. 

Until  July,  1916,  when  Congress  appropriated  $50,000  for  the  purchase  of  a 
part  of  the  private  holdings  in  the  Giant  Forest,  it  was  our  national  misfortune 
and  peril  that  most  of  these  monster  trees  remained  the  property  of  individuals. 
The  balance  of  the  property  was  purchased  for  $20,000  by  the  National  Geo- 
graphic Society  and  donated  to  the  United  States. 

(64) 


Photograph  by  Lindley  Eddy 


VISTAS  OF  THE  GIANT  FOREST 
Many  of  these  trees  were  growing  thriftily  when  Christ  was  born 


65163°— 21 5 


(65). 


Photograph  by  Lindley  Eddy 


ALTA  PEAK  FROM  MORO  ROCK 


Photograph  by  H.  C.  TibbiUs 


ALTA  MEADOWS  NEAR  THE  GIANT  FOREST 

(66) 


Photograph  by  Lindley  Eddy 


SUNSET  FROM  THE  RIM  OF  MARBLE  FORK  CANYON 


Photograph  by  C.  H.  Hamilton 


THE  SIERRA  CLUB  IN  CAMP 

(67) 


. 


(68) 


-  »-,  ^s.  * 

^*MP*£ 


•BE. 


Photograph  by  H.  E.  Roberts 

SEQUOIA  AND  FIR  IN  THE  GENERAL  GRANT  NATIONAL  PARK 

(69) 


Photograph  by  C.  H.  Hamilton 


AN  AGED  JUNIPER 
Sequoia  is  the  park  of  big  trees  of  many  kinds,  and  it  is  the  park  of  birds 


(70) 


THE    GREATER    SEQUOIA 


can  not  think  or  speak  of  the  Sequoia  National  Park  without 
including  the  extraordinary  scenic  country  lying  beyond  its  bound- 
aries to  the  north  and  east.  Not  that  there  is  much  in  common 
between  the  two,  for  the  park  marks  the  supremacy  of  forest  lux- 
uriance and  the  outlying  country  the  supremacy  of  rock-sculptured  canyon 
and  snowy  summit. 

And  yet  there  is  the  common  note  of  supremacy,  each  of  its  own  kind. 
And  there  is  the  common  note  of  continuity,  for,  from  the  lowest  valley 
of  the  wooded  park  to  the  peak  of  our  loftiest  height,  Mount  Whitney,  nature's 
painting  runs  the  gamut.     The  parts  are  indivisible;  to  separate  them  is  to  cut 
in  two  the  canvas  of  the  Master. 

It  is  this  noble  area  which  it  is  proposed  to  call  the  Roosevelt  National  Park 
as  a  memorial  to  the  statesman  who  was,  first  of  all,  the  apostle  of  the  out-of- 
doors.  The  country-wide  movement  to  this  end  found  its  expression  in  a  bill 
before  Congress  early  in  1919,  which,  however,  with  many  other  important  bills, 
failed  to  reach  a  vote  upon  the  statutory  adjournment  of  Congress  on  March  4. 


Photograph  by  H.  C.  Tibbitts 

THE  GOLDEN  TROUT  CREEK 

The  trout  caught  in  this  stream  are  brilliantly  golden.     They  are  found  nowhere  else  in  the  world 
except  where  transplanted  from  this  stream 

(71) 


Photograph  by  Lindley  Eddy 


THE  FALI 
This  trunk  measures  288  feet.     Sequoia  wood  is  almost  indestructible 


(72) 


GIANT 

ppt  by  fire.    This  tree  may  have  been  prostrate  for  many  centuries 

(73) 


Photograph  by  H.  C.  Tibbitts 


THE  CELEBRATED  KINGS  RIVER  CANYON 


Photograph  by  H.  C.  Tibbitts 


UNIVERSITY  PEAK.  FROM  KEARSARGE  PASS 

(74) 


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Photograph  by  J .  N.  Le  Conte 

TEHIPITE  DOME,  3,000  FEET  SHEER  ABOVE  THE  KINGS  RIVER 

(75) 


_v 


5*4: 


Photograph  byS.  H.  Willard 

MOUNT  BREWER,  "THE  MOUNTAIN  MAGNIFICENT,"  FROM  EAST  LAKE 


Photograph  by  S.  H.  Willard 


RAE  LAKE,  PROBABLY  THE  MOST  BEAUTIFUL  IN  THE  HIGH  SIERRA 

(76) 


Photograph  by  S.  H  WiUard 

GRAND  SENTINEL,  TOWERING  3,500  FKET  ABOVE  THE  RIVER,  is  ONE  OF  THE  FEATURES  OF 

KINGS  RIVER  CANYON 


KINGS  AND  KERN  CANYONS 


ELL  outside  the  park's  boundaries  and  overlooking  it  from  the 
east  the  amazing,  craggy  Sierra  gives  birth  in  glacial  chambers 
to  two  noble  rivers.  A  hundred  thousand  rivulets  trickle  from 
the  everlasting  snows;  ten  thousand  resultant  brooks  roar  down 
the  rocky  slopes;  hundreds  of  resultant  streams  swell  their  turbulent,  trout- 
haunted  currents. 

One  of  these  rivers,  the  Kings,  flows  west,  paralleling  the  northern  boundary 
of  the  park.  The  other,  the  Kern,  flows  south,  paralleling  its  eastern  boundary. 
The  Kings  River  Canyon,  the  Tehipite  Valley,  and  the  Canyon  of  the 
Kern  are  practically  matchless  for  the  wild  quality  of  their  beauty  and  the 
majesty  of  their  setting.  The  traveler  goes  home  to  plan  his  return,  for  this 
is  a  country  whose  peculiar  charm  lays  an  enduring  clutch  upon  desire.  "The 
Greater  Sequoia"  has  few  visitors  yet — but  they  are  worshipers. 

Unlike  many  areas  of  extreme  rocky  character,  this  is  not  specially  difficult 
to  travel;  it  curiously  adapts  itself  to  trails.  It  is  an  ideal  land  for  the  camper. 
But  one  must  go  well  equipped.  There  must  be  good  guides,  good  horses, 
and  plenty  of  warm  clothing.  The  difference  here  between  a  good  and  an 
indifferent  equipment  is  the  difference  between  satisfaction  and  misery. 


Photograph  by  S.  H.  Willard 

ROARING  FORK  FALLS  ON  THE  SOUTH  FORK.  OF  THE  KINGS 

(-8) 


Photograph  by  H.  C.  Tibbitts 

HERE  THE  SIERRA  HAS  MASSED  HER  MOUNTAINS;    TUMBLED  THEM  WILLFULLY, 
RECKLESSLY,  INTO  ONE  TITANIC,  SPRAWLING  HEAP 

(79) 


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THE  SUMMIT  OF  MOUNT  WHITNEY,  NEARLY  THREE  MILES  HIGH 


Photograph  by  Emsrson  Hough 

SUMMIT  OF  MOUNT  WHITNEY. 


THE  STONE  SHELTER  ON  MOUNT  WHITNEY'S  SUMMIT 

(82) 


MOUNT  RAINIER 

NATIONAL 

PARK 


(83) 


% 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 


A  RIPPLING  RIVER  OF  ICE  400  FEET  THICK  FLOWING  FROM  THE  SHINING  SUMMIT 
Looking  from  a  wild-flower  slope  down  upon  the  celebrated  Nisqually  Glacier  and  up  at  Columbia  Crest 

(84) 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 


ENTRANCE  TO  MOUNT  RAINIER  NATIONAL  PARK 


THE  FROZEN  OCTOPUS 

ROM  the  Cascade  Mountains  in  Washington  rises  a  series  of  vol- 
canoes which  once  blazed  across  the  sea  like  giant  beacons.     To- 
day, their  fires  quenched,  they  suggest  a  stalwart  band  of  Knights 
of  the  Ages,  helmeted  in  snow,  armored  in  ice,  standing  at  parade 
upon  a  carpet  patterned  gorgeously  in  wild  flowers. 

Easily  chief  of  this  knightly  band  is  Mount  Rainier,  a  giant  towering 
14,408  feet  above  tidewater  in  Puget  Sound.  Home-bound  sailors  far  at  sea 
mend  their  courses  from  his  silver  summit. 

This  mountain  has  a  glacier  system  far  exceeding  in  size  and  impressive 
beauty  that  of  any  other  in  the  United  States.  From  its  snow-covered  summit 
twenty-eight  rivers  of  ice  pour  slowly  down  its  sides.  Seen  upon  the  map, 
as  if  from  an  aeroplane,  one  thinks  of  it  as  an  enormous  frozen  octopus  stretch- 
ing icy  tentacles  down  upon  every  side  among  the  rich  gardens  of  wild  flowers 
and  splendid  forests  of  firs  and  cedars  below. 


(8s) 


•srs 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 

ABOVE  EVERY  CURVE  OF  THE  PARADISE  ROAD  LOOMS  THE  GREAT  WHITE  MOUNTAIN 

(86) 


. 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 

FROM  UNDER  THE  SHADOWY  FIRS  OF  VAN  TRUMP  PARK  IT  GLISTENS  STARTLINGLY 

(s7) 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 

ONE  OF  THE  GREAT  SPECTACLES  OF  AMERICA  Is  MOUNT  RAINIER,  FROM  INDIAN  HENRYJ 

(88) 


GROUND,  GLISTENING  AGAINST  THE  SKY  AND  PICTURED  AGAIN  IN  MIRROR  LAKE 

(89) 


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Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 

LOOKING  INTO  A  GREAT  CREVASSE  IN  THE  STEVENS  GLACIER 

Crevasses  are  caused  by  the  swifter  motion  of  the  middle  than  the  sides.     This  ice  is  400  feet  deep 

(9*) 


THE  GIANT   RIVERS   OF  ICE 

VERY  winter  the  moisture-laden  winds  from  the  Pacific,  suddenly 
cooled  against  its  summit,  deposit  upon  Rainier 's  top  and  sides 
enormous  snows.  These,  settling  in  the  mile- wide  crater  which 
was  left  after  an  explosion  in  some  prehistoric  age  which  carried 
away  perhaps  two  thousand  feet  of  the  volcano's  former  height,  press  with 
overwhelming  weight  down  the  mountain's  sloping  sides. 

Thus  are  born  the  glaciers,  for  the  snow  under  its  own  pressure  quickly 
hardens  into  ice.  Through  twenty-eight  valleys,  self -carved  in  the  solid  rock, 
flow  these  rivers  of  ice,  now  turning,  as  rivers  of  water  turn,  to  avoid  the 
harder  rock  strata,  now  roaring  over  precipices  like  congealed  water  falls, 
now  rippling,  like  water  currents,  over  rough  bottoms,  pushing,  pouring 
relentlessly  on  until  they  reach  those  parts  of  their  courses  where  warmer 
air  turns  them  into  rivers  of  water. 

There  are  forty-eight  square  miles  of  these  glaciers. 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 

SNOUT  OF  NISQUALLY  GLACIER  WHERE  THE  NISQUALLY  RIVER  BEGINS 

(93) 


CLOSE  TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  MOUNT  RAINIER 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 

LEAVING  CAMP  OF  THE  CLOUDS  FOR  THE  SUMMIT 

Nearly  every  day  parties  start  for  the  long  hard  tramp  up  the  glaciers  to  Columbia  Crest.  The  climbers 
must  dress  warmly,  paint  their  faces  and  hands  to  protect  the  skin  from  sunburn,  and  eat  sparingly. 
Dark  glasses  must  be  worn.  None  but  the  hardy  mountain  climbers  attempt  this  arduous  tramp. 

(94) 


IN  AN  ARCTIC  WONDERLAND 


O  U  N  T  RAINIER 
is  nearly  three  miles 
high  measured  from 
sea  level.  It  rises 
nearly  two  miles  from  its  im- 
mediate base.  Once  it  was  a 
finished  cone  like  the  famous 
Fujiyama,  the  sacred  mountain 
of  Japan.  Then  it  was  prob- 
ably 16,000  feet  high.  Indian 
legends  tell  of  the  great  erup- 
tion. 

In  addition  to  the  twenty- 
eight  named  glaciers  there  are 
others  yet  unnamed  and  little 
known.  Few  visitors  have 
seen  the  wonderful  north  side, 
a  photograph  of  which  will  be 
found  on  a  later  page.  It  pos- 
sesses endless  possibilities  for 
development  and  easy  grades  to 
Columbia  Crest,  the  wonderful 
snow-covered  summit  which  is 
the  second  highest  summit  in 
the  United  States. 

Many  interesting  things 
might  be  told  of  the  glaciers 
were  there  space.  For  example, 
several  species  of  minute  insects 
live  in  the  ice,  hopping  about 
like  tiny  fleas.  They  are  harder 
to  see  than  the  so-called  sand 
fleas  at  the  seashore  because 
much  smaller.  Slender,  dark- 
brown  worms  live  in  countless 
millions  in  the  surface  ice. 
Microscopic  rose-colored  plants 
also  thrive  in  such  great  num- 
bers that  they  tint  the  surface 
here  and  there,  making  what  is 
commonly  called  "red  snow." 


I* holograph  bv  Curtis  &  Miller 

COASTING  AT  PARADISE  VALLEY 

(95) 


GLACIER  AND  WILD  FLOWER 

ROBABLY  no  glacier  of  large  size  in  the  world  is  so  quickly,  easily, 
and  comfortably  reached  as  the  most  striking  and  celebrated, 
though  by  no  means  the  largest,  of  Mount  Rainier's,  the  Nisqually 
Glacier.  It  descends  directly  south  from  the  snowy  summit  in  a 
long  curve,  its  lower  finger  reaching  into  parklike  glades  of  luxuriant  wild 
flowers.  From  Paradise  Park  one  may  step  directly  upon  its  fissured  surface. 

The  Nisqually  Glacier  is  five  miles  long  and,  at  Paradise  Park,  is  half 
a  mile  wide.  Glistening  white  and  fairly  smooth  at  its  shining  source  on  the 
mountain's  summit,  its  surface  here  is  soiled  with  dust  and  broken  stone  and 
squeezed  and  rent  by  terrible  pressure  into  fantastic  shapes.  Innumerable 
crevasses,  or  cracks  many  feet  deep,  break  across  it  caused  by  the  more  rapid 
movement  of  the  glacier's  middle  than  its  edges;  for  glaciers,  like  rivers  of 
water,  develop  swifter  currents  nearer  midstream. 

Professor  Le  Conte  tells  us  that  the  movement  of  Nisqually  Glacier  in 
summer  averages,  at  midstream,  about  sixteen  inches  a  day.  It  is  far  less  at 
the  margins,  its  speed  being  retarded  by  the  friction  of  the  sides. 

Like  all  glaciers,  the  Nisqually  gathers  on  its  surface  masses  of  rock  with 
which  it  strews  its  sides  just  as  rivers  of  water  strew  their  banks  with  rocks  and 
floating  debris.  These  are  called  lateral  moraines,  or  side  moraines.  Some- 
times glaciers  build  lateral  moraines  miles  long.  The  Nisqually  ice  is  four  hun- 
dred feet  thick  in  places. 

The  rocks  which  are  carried  in  midstream  to  the  end  of  the  glacier  and 
dropped  when  the  ice  melts  are  called  the  terminal  moraine. 

The  end,  or  snout,  of  the  glacier  thus  always  lies  among  a  great  mass  of 
rocks  and  stones.  The  Nisqually  River  generally  flows  from  a  cave  in  the  end 
of  the  Nisqually  Glacier's  snout.  The  river  is  dark  brown  when  it  first  appears 
because  it  carries  sediment  and  powdered  rock  which,  however,  it  soon  deposits, 
becoming  clear. 

But  this  brief  picture  of  the  Mount  Rainier  National  Park  would  miss  its 
loveliest  touch  without  some  notice  of  the  wild-flower  parks  lying  at  the  base, 
and  often  reaching  far  up  between  the  icy  fingers,  of  Mount  Rainier. 

"Above  the  forests,"  writes  John  Muir,  the  celebrated  naturalist,  "there 
is  a  zone  of  the  loveliest  flowers,  fifty  miles  in  circuit  and  nearly  two  miles 
wide,  so  closely  planted  and  luxurious  that  it  seems  as  if  nature,  glad  to  make 
an  open  space  between  woods  so  dense  and  ice  so  deep,  were  economizing  the 
precious  ground  and  trying  to  see  how  many  of  her  darlings  she  can  get 
together  in  one  mountain  wreath — daisies,  anemones,  columbine,  erythroniums, 
larkspurs,  etc.,  among  which  we  wade  knee-deep  and  waist-deep,  the  bright 
corollas  in  myriads  touching  petal  to  petal.  Altogether  this  is  the  richest 
subalpine  garden  I  have  ever  found,  a  perfect  flower  elysium." 

(96) 


Photograph  by  Curfis  &  Miller 

MOUNT  ADAMS  FROM  MOUNT  RAINIER — FORTY  MILES  SOUTHWARD 

65163°— 21 7  (97) 


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^^ 


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X!     O       J2 


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Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 

BEAUTIFUL  PARADISE  VALLEY  SHOWING  THE  TATOOSH  RIDGE 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 

TlMBER-LlNE  AND   FLOWER   FlELDS   IN    BEAUTIFUL   PARADISE   VALLEY 

(99) 


~       -5 


doi) 


•m 


Photograph  by  A.  H.  Barnes 


SNOW  CUPS 

(102) 


MOWICH   LAKE,  A  NORTH-SIDE  GEM  OF   BEAUTY 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 


THE  ROADS  ARE  ADMIRABLE 

(103) 


(io4) 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 

THE  ROADS  LEAD  TO  THE  GLACIERS  THROUGH  FORESTS  OF  FIR  AND  CEDAR 

(105) 


EASIEST  GLACIERS  TO  SEE 


HE  Mount  Rainier  National  Park  is  so  accessible  that  one  may 
get  a  brief  close-by  glimpse  in  one  day.  The  new  railroad  slogan, 
"Four  hours  from  Tacoma  to  the  Glaciers,"  tells  the  story. 

But  no  one  unless  under  dire  necessity  should  think  of  being  so 
near  one  of  the  greatest  spectacles  in  nature  without  sparing  several  days  for 
a  real  look;  several  weeks  is  none  too  long.  Thousands  of  Americans  in  nor- 
mal years  go  to  Switzerland  to  see  glaciers  much  harder  to  reach  and  far  less 
satisfactory  to  study. 

An  excellent  road  will  carry  the  visitor  by  autostage  from  the  railway 
terminus  to  the  several  comfortable  hotels  and  camps,  most  of  which  are  so 
located  that  the  principal  scenic  points  on  the  south  side  may  be  easily  reached. 
Pedestrians  and  horseback  riders  also  follow  trails  through  the  gorgeous 
wild-flower  parks,  Paradise  Valley,  Indian  Henrys  Hunting  Ground,  Van 
Trump  Park,  Cowlitz  Park,  Ohanapecosh  River  and  its  hot  springs,  Summer- 
land,  Grand  Park,  Moraine  Park,  Elysian  Fields,  Spray  Park,  Natural  Bridge, 
Cataract  Basin,  St.  Andrews  Park,  Glacier  Basin,  and  others;  developing  new 
points  of  view  of  wonderful  glory. 


Photograph  by  Curtis  &  Miller 


NATIONAL  PARK  INN 

(106) 


CRATER 

LAKE 

NATIONAL 
PARK 


do;) 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.Kiser,  Portland,  Orego 


LOOKING  INTO  ITS  VAST  DEPTHS  Is  LIKE  LOOKING  INTO  THE  LIMITLESS  SKY 

doS) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Sercice 


THE   PHANTOM  SHIP — STRANDED  ON  A  MAGIC  SHORE 


THE  LAKE  OF  MYSTERY 


RATER  LAKE  is  the  deepest  and  the  bluest  fresh-water  lake  in 
the  world.  It  measures  two  thousand  feet  of  solid  w^ater,  and  the 
intensity  of  its  color  is  unbelievable  even  while  you  look  at  it. 
Its  cliffs  from  sky  line  to  surface  average  over  a  thousand  feet  high. 
It  has  no  visible  inlet  or  outlet,  for  it  occupies  the  hole  left  when,  in  the  dim 
ages  before  man,  a  volcano  collapsed  and  disappeared  within  itself. 

It  is  a  gem  of  wonderful  color  in  a  setting  of  pearly  lavas  relieved  by  patches 
of  pine  green  and  snow  white — a  gem  which  changes  hue  with  e*ery  atmospheric 
change  and  every  shift  of  light. 

There  are  crater  lakes  in  other  lands;  in  Italy,  for  instance,  in  Germany, 
India,  and  Hawaii.  The  one  lake  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States  is  by  far 
the  finest  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  It  is  one  of  the  most  distinguished  spots 
in  a  land  notable  for  the  nobility  and  distinction  of  its  scenery. 

Crater  Lake  lies  in  southern  Oregon.  The  volcano  whose  site  it  has 
usurped  was  one  of  a  "noble  band  of  fire  mountains  which,  like  beacons,  once 
blazed  along  the  Pacific  Coast."  Because  of  its  unique  character  and  quite 
extraordinary  beauty  it  was  made  a  national  park  in  1902. 

(!09) 


Photograph  by  U .  S.  Reclamation  Service 

THE  SUN  PLAYS  WONDERFUL  TRICKS.  WITH  LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 

(wo) 


EARLY  every  visitor  to  Crater  Lake,  even  the  most  prosaic, 
describes  it  as  mysterious.  To  those  who  have  not  seen  it,  the 
adjective  is  difficult  to  analyze,  but  the  fact  remains. 

The  explanation  may  lie  in  Crater  Lake's  remarkable  color 
scheme.  The  infinite  range  of  grays,  silvers,  and  pearls  in  the  carved  and 
fretted  lava  walls,  the  glinting  white  of  occasional  snow  patches,  the  olives 
and  pine  greens  of  woods  and  mosses,  the  vivid,  cloud-flecked  azure  of  the 
sky,  and  the  lake's  thousand  shades  of  blue,  from  the  brilliant  turquoise  of  its 
edges  to  the  black  blue  of  its  depths  of  deepest  shadow,  strike  into  silence 
the  least  impressionable  observers.  "The  Sea  of  Silence,"  Joaquin  Miller 
calls  Crater  Lake. 

With  changing  conditions  of  sun  and  air,  this  amazing  spectacle  changes 
key  with  the  passing  hours;  and  it  is  hard  to  say  which  is  its  most  rapturous 
condition  of  beauty,  that  of  cloudless  sunshine  or  that  of  twilight  shadow; 
or  of  what  intermediate  degree,  or  of  storm  or  of  shower  or  of  moonlight  or 
of  starlight.  At  times  the  scene  changes  magically  while  you  watch. 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 


PLAYING  A  THREE-POUND  TROUT  FROM  THE  ROCKY  SHORE 


Cm) 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 

A  POEM  IN  GRAYS  AND  GREENS  AND  UNBELIEVABLE   BLUES 

(112) 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 

CLIFFS  OF  A  THOUSAND  PEARLY  HUES  FANTASTICALLY  CARVED 

65163°  ~2i 8  II 


("4) 


Mf  Mazama. 


STORY  OF  MOUNT  MAZAMA 

EW  of  the  astonishing  pictures  which  geology  has  restored  for  us 
of  this  world  in  its  making  are  so  startling  as  that  of  Mount 
Mazama,  which  once  reared  a  smoking  peak  many  thousands  of 
feet  above  the  present  peaceful  level  of  Crater  Lake.  There 
were  many  noble  volcanoes  in  the  range:  Mount  Baker,  Mount  Rainier, 
Mount  Adams,  Mount  St.  Helens,  Lassen  Peak,  Mount  Mazama,  Mount 
Hood,  Mount  Shasta.  Once  their  vomitings  built  the  great  Cascade  Moun- 
tains. To-day,  cold  and  silent,  they  stand  wrapped  in  shining  armor  of  ice. 

But  not  all.  One  is  missing.  Where  Mount  Mazama  reared  his  noble 
head,  there  is  nothing — until  you  climb  the  slopes  once  his  foothills,  and  gaze 
spellbound  over  the  broken  lava  cliffs  into  the  lake  which  lies  magically  where 
once  he  stood.  The  story  of  the  undoing  of  Mount  Mazama,  of  the  birth  of 
this  wonder  lake,  is  one  of  the  great  stories  of  the  earth. 

Mount  Mazama  fell  into  itself.  It  is  as  if  some  vast  cavern  formed  in 
the  earth's  seething  interior  into  which  the  entire  volcano  suddenly  slipped. 
The  imagination  of  Dore  might  have  reproduced  some  hint  of  the  titanic 
spectacle  of  the  disappearance  of  a  mountain  fifteen  thousand  feet  in  height. 

When  Mount  Mazama  collapsed  into  this  vast  hole,  leaving  clean  cut  the 
edges  which  to-day  are  Crater  Lake's  surrounding  cliffs,  there  was  instantly 
a  surging  back.  The  crumbling  lavas  were  forced  again  up  the  huge  chimney. 

But  not  all  the  way.  The  vent  became  jammed.  In  three  spots  only  did 
the  fires  emerge  again.  Three  small  volcanoes  formed  in  the  hollow. 

But  these  in  turn  soon  choked  and  cooled.  During  succeeding  ages 
springs  poured  their  waters  into  the  vast  cavity,  and  Crater  Lake  was  born. 
Its  rising  waters  covered  two  of  the  small  volcanic  cones.  The  third  still 
emerges.  It  is  called  Wizard  Island. 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 


SUNSET 


THE  LEGEND  OF   LLAO 


CCORDING   to   the   legend   of   the    Klamath    and   Modoc    Indians 
the  mystic  land  of  Gay  was  was  the  home  of  the  great  god  Llao. 
His   throne   in   th'e   infinite   depths   of   the   blue   waters   was   sur- 
rounded by  his  warriors,  giant  crawfish   able   to   lift  great  claws 
out  of  the  water  and  seize  too  venturesome  enemies  on  the  cliff  tops. 

War  broke  out  with  Skell,  the  god  of  the  neighboring  Klamath  Marshes. 
Skell  was  killed  and  his  heart  used  for  a  ball  by  Llao's  monsters.  But  an 
eagle,  one  of  Skell's  servants,  captured  it  in  flight,  and  escaped  with  it;  and 
Skell 's  body  grew  again  around  his  living  heart.  Once  more  he  was  powerful, 
and  once  more  he  waged  war  against  the  God  of  the  Lake. 

Then  Llao  was  captured;  but  he  was  not  so  fortunate.  Upon  the  highest 
cliff  his  body  was  torn  into  fragments  and  cast  into  the  lake,  and  eaten  by 
his  own  monsters  under  the  belief  that  it  was  Skell's  body.  But  when  Llao's 
head  was  thrown  in,  the  monsters  recognized  it,  and  would  not  eat  it. 

Llao's  head  still  lies  in  the  lake,  and  white  men  call  it  Wizard  Island. 
And  the  cliff  where  Llao  was  torn  to  pieces  is  named  Llao  Rock. 

(116) 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 

OFTEN  THE  TREES  ARE  AS  GNARLED  AND  KNOTTED  AS  THE  CLIFFS  THEY  GROW  ON 

("7) 


Photograph  by  U .  S.  Reclamation  Service 

LOOKING  DOWN  INTO  THE  CRATER  OF  WIZARD  ISLAND 


VIEWED   FROM    THE    RIM 

EVERAIy  days  may  profitably  be  spent  upon  the  rim  of  the  lake, 
which  one  may  travel  afoot,  on  horseback  or  by  automobile.  The 
endless  variety  of  lava  formations  and  of  color  variation  may  be  here 

studied  to  the  best  advantage. 

The  temperature  of  the  water  has  been  the.  subject  of  much  investigation. 
The  average  observations  of  years  show  that,  whatever  may  be  the  surface 
variations,  the  temperature  of  the  water  below  a  depth  of  three  hundred  feet 
continues  approximately  39  degrees  the  year  around.  This  disposes  of  the 
theory  that  the  depths  of  the  lake  are  affected  by  volcanic  heat. 

"Apart  from  its  attractive  scenic  features,"  writes  J.  S.  Diller  of  the  United 
States  Geological  Survey,  "Crater  Ivake  affords  one  of  the  most  interesting 
and  instructive  fields  for  the  study  of  volcanic  geology  to  be  found  anywhere 
in  the  world.  Considered  in  all  its  aspects,  it  ranks  with  the  Grand  Canyon 
of  the  Colorado,  the  Yosemite  Valley,  and  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  but  with  an 
individuality  that  is  superlative." 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 

SAND  CREEK,  SHOWING  PINNACLES  RESULTING  FROM  EROSION 

dig) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

GENERAL  VIEW  ACROSS  CRATER  LAKE  NEAR  SENTINEL  ROCK,  SHOWING  : 
These  cliffs  vary  from  a  thousand  to  twelve  hundred  feet  high,  occasionally  rising  to  two  thousand  feet  or  r 


NORTHERN  SHORE  LINE,  WITH  RED  CONE  IN  THE  MIDDLE   DISTANCE 
,    The  first  effect  of  a  view  across  the  lake  is  to  fill  the  observer  with  awe  and  a  deep  sense  of  mystery 

(MI) 


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Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser 


THE  WINTER  SNOWFAIL  is  EXTREMELY  HEAVY 

(124) 


/    .     <       <%, 

7  '   I 


Photograph  by  National  Park  Senice 

THE  MOISTURE-LADEN  WINDS  FROM  THE  PACIFIC  DEPOSIT  THEIR  SNOW  BURDEN  UPON  EVERYTHING 


Photograph  by  National  Park  Service 

THE  WINTER  CONTRAST  BETWEEN  THE  SNOW  BURDENED  CLIFFS  AND  TREES  AND  THE  DARK 

WATER  is  VERY  STRIKING 

(125) 


THE    MINE  OF  BEAUTY 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 

TROUT  RUN  FROM  ONE  TO  Six  POUNDS 


RATER  LAKE  is  seen 
in  its  glory  from  a 
launch.  One  may  float 
for  days  upon  its  sur- 
face without  sating  one's  sense  of 
delighted  surprise;  for  all  is  new 
again  with  every  change  of  light. 
The  Phantom  Ship,  for  instance, 
sometimes  wholly  disappears. 
Now  it  is  there,  and  a  few  minutes 
after,  with  new  slants  of  light,  it 
is  gone — a  phantom  indeed.  So 
it  is  with  many  headlands  and 
ghostlike  palisades. 

This  lake  was  not  discovered 
until  1853.  Eleven  Calif ornians 
had  undertaken  once  more  the 
search  for  the  famous,  perhaps 
fabulous,  Lost  Cabin  Mine.  For 
many  years  parties  had  been 
searching  the  Cascades ;  again  they 
had  come  into  the  Rogue  River 
region.  With  all  their  secrecy 
their  object  became  known,  and 
a  party  of  Oregonians  was  hastily 
organized  to  stalk  them  and  share 
their  find.  The  Californians  dis- 
covered the  pursuit  and  divided 
their  party.  The  Oregonians  did 
the  same.  It  became  a  game  of 
hide-and-seek.  When  provisions 
were  nearly  exhausted  all  the  par- 
ties joined  forces. 

"Suddenly  we  came  in  sight 
of  water,"  writes  ].  W.  Hillman, 
then  the  leader  of  the  combined 
party;  "we  were  much  surprised, 
as  we  did  not  expect  to  see  any 
lakes  and  did  not  know  but  that 
we  had  come  in  sight  of  and  close 
to  Klamath  Lake.  Not  until  my 


(136) 


•  ,, 


'  - 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 

THE  FAVORITE  WAY  TO  SEE  THE  SCULPTURED  CLIFFS  Is   FROM  A  MOTOR   BOAT 

mule  stopped  within  a  few  feet  of  the  rim  of  Crater  Lake  did  I  look  down, 
and  if  I  had  been  riding  a  blind  mule  I  firmly  believe  I  would  have  ridden  over 
the  edge  to  death." 

It  is  interesting  that  the  discoverers  quarreled  on  the  choice  of  a  name, 
dividing  between  Mysterious  Lake  and  Deep  Blue  Lake.  The  advocates  of  Deep 
Blue  Lake  won  the  vote,  but  in  1869  a  visiting  party  from  Jacksonville  renamed 
it  Crater  Lake,  and  this,  by  natural  right,  became  its  title. 

HOTELS  AND  CAMPS 

Partly  because  it  is  off  the  main  line  of  travel,  but  chiefly  because  its 
unique  attractions  are  not  yet  well  known,  Crater  Lake  has  been  seen  by  com- 
paratively few.  Under  concession  from  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  a  com- 
fortable camp  is  operated  five  miles  from  the  lake  and  a  newly  completed  hotel 
and  camp  on  the  lake's  rim.  Equipments  for  camping  may  be  hired. 


HARD   FIGHTING   TROUT 


HIS    magnificent    body   of    cold   fresh   water    originally    contained 
no  fish  of  any  kind.    A  small  crustacean  was  found  in  large  num- 
bers in  its  waters,  the  suggestion,  no  doubt,  upon  which  was  founded 
the  Indian  legend  of  the  gigantic  crawfish  which  formed  the  body- 
guard of  the  great  god  Llao. 

In  1888  Will  G.  Steel  brought  trout  fry  from  a  ranch  fifty  miles  away, 

but  no  fish  were  seen  in 
the  lake  for  more  than 
a  dozen  years.  Then  a 
few  were  taken,  one  of 
which  was  fully  thirty 
inches  long. 

Since  then  trout  have 
been  taken  in  ever- 
increasing  numbers. 
They  are  best  caught 
by  fly  casting  from  the 
shore.  For  this  reason 
the  fishing  is  not  always 
the  easiest.  Often  the 
slopes  are  not  propitious 
for  casting.  One  has 
to  climb  upon  outlying 
rocks  to  reach  the 
waters  of  best  depth. 
But  the  results  usually 
justify  the  effort.  The 
trout  range  from  one  to 
ten  pounds  in  weight. 
Anglers  of  experience  in 
western  fishing  testify 
that,  pound  for  pound, 
the  rainbow  trout  taken 
in  the  cold  deep  waters 
of  Crater  Lake  are  the 
hardest-fighting  trout 
of  all. 

Many  fish  are  also 
taken  from  rowboats. 
A  trolling  spoon  will 

Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

CAMPING  OUT  BACK  OF  THE  RIM  often  lure  large  fish. 

("8) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

AT    THE    FOOT    OF    THE    TRAIL    FROM    CRATER    LAKE    LODGE 


Plu>togral>h  by  Fred  H.  Kiszr,  Portland,  Oregon 

ACROSS  THE  LAKE   FROM  THE   RIM  ROAD 


CRATER  LAKE  LODGE  oisi  THE   RIM,   1,000  FEET  ABOVE  THE  LAKE 

The  lounge  occupies  the  entire  ground  floor  of  the  center  segment  of  the  building,  is  40  by  60  feet,  without 
a  pillar  or  post,  and  contains  what  is  said  to  be  the  largest  fireplace  in  the  State  of  Oregon 


(130) 


THE 


MESA  VERDE 

NATIONAL 

PARK 


(131) 


;Hrt«bt     •       •  . 

'•  .,- 


Photograph  by  G.  M.  Can 

GOVERNMENT  ROAD  TO  THE  CELEBRATED  PREHISTORIC  RUINS 

Showing  the  woods  which  justify  the  title  Mesa  Verde    (Green  Table-land) 

(132) 


Photograph  by  F.  C,  Jeep 


YESTERDAY  AND  TO-DAY 


CITIES  OF  THE  PAST 

NE  December  day  in  1888  Richard  and  Alfred  Wetherell,  searching 
for  lost  cattle  on  the  Mesa  Verde  near  their  home  at  Mancos, 
Colorado,  pushed  through  dense  growths  on  the  edge  of  a  deep 
canyon  and  shouted  aloud  in  astonishment.  Across  the  canyon, 
tucked  into  a  shelf  under  the  overhanging  edge  of  the  opposite  brink,  were  the 
walls  and  towers  of  what  seemed  to  them  a  palace.  They  named  it  Cliff  Palace. 
Forgetting  the  cattle  in  their  excitement,  they  searched  the  edge  of  the 
mesa  in  all  directions.  Near  by,  under  the  overhanging  edge  of  another  canyon, 
they  found  a  similar  group,  no  less  majestic,  which  they  named  Spruce  Tree 
House  because  a  large  spruce  grew  out  of  the  ruins. 

Thus  was  discovered  the  most  elaborate  and  best-preserved  prehistoric 
ruins  in  America,  if  not  in  the  world. 

A  careful  search  of  the  entire  Mesa  Verde  in  the  years  following  has  resulted 
in  many  other  finds  of  interest  and  importance.  In  1906  Congress  set  aside 
the  region  as  a  national  park.  Even  yet  its  treasures  of  antiquity  are  not  all 
known.  A  remarkable  temple  to  the  sun  was  unearthed  in  1915. 

(133) 


. 


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(i3S) 


Photograph  by  Geo.  L.  Beam,  Denier,  Colo. 

THE  SUN  TEMPLE,  LOOKING  NORTHEAST.     SHOWING  AT  LEFT  THE  TRUNK  01 

(136) 


EDAR  TREE  WITH  360  RINGS  WHICH  WAS  CUT  DOWN  DURING  EXCAVATION 

(137) 


Photograph  by  D.  W.  Roper 


THE  EXPLORATION  OF  NEWLY  DISCOVERED  RUINS  OFTEN  REQUIRES  MUCH  HARD  AND 

EVEN  PERILOUS  CLIMBING  * 


(138) 


Photograph  by  Mrs.  C.  R.  Miller 

MANY  GATHERED  NIGHTLY  AROUND  THE  CAMP  FIRE  TO  HEAR  DR.  FEWKES  TELL  THE 

STORY  OF  THE  ANCIENT  PEOPLE 

THE  STORY  OF   THE  MESAS 

HOSE  who  have  traveled  through  our  Southwestern  States  have 
seen  from  the  car  window  innumerable  mesas  or  isolated  plateaus 
rising  abruptly  for  hundreds  of  feet  from  the  bare  and  often  arid 
plains.  The  word  mesa  is  Spanish  for  table. 
Once  the  level  of  these  mesa  tops  was  the  level  of  all  of  this  vast  South- 
western country,  but  the  rains  and  floods  of  centuries  have  washed  away  the 
softer  earths  down  to  its  present  level,  leaving  standing  only  the  rocky  spots 
or  those'  so  covered  with  surface  rocks  that  the  rains  could  not  reach  the  softer 
gravel  underneath. 

The  Mesa  Verde,  or  green  mesa  (because  it  is  covered  with  stunted  cedar 
and  pinyon  trees  in  a  land  where  trees  are  few) ,  is  perhaps  most  widely  known. 
The  Mesa  Verde  is  one  of  the  largest  mesas.     It  is  fifteen  miles  long  and 
eight  miles  wide.     At  its  foot  are  masses  of  broken  rocks  rising  from  three  hun- 
dred to  five  hundred  feet  above  the  bare  plains.     Above  these  rise  the  cliffs. 
The  cliff  dwellings  nestle  under  its  overhanging  cliffs  near  the  top. 

(139) 


IN    THE    CLIFF    DWELLINGS 

IFE  must  have  been  difficult  in  this  dry  country  when  the  Mesa 
Verde  communities  flourished  in  the  sides  of  these  sandstone  cliffs. 
Game  was  scarce  and  hunting  arduous.  The  Mancos  River  yielded 
a  few  fish.  The  earth  contributed  berries  or  nuts.  Water  was 
rare  and  found  only  in  sequestered  places  near  the  heads  of  the  canyons. 
Nevertheless,  the  inhabitants  cultivated  their  farms  and  raised  their  corn, 
which  they  ground  on  flat  stones  called  metates.  They  baked  their  bread  on 
flat  stone  griddles.  They  boiled  their  meat  in  well-made  vessels,  some  of  which 
were  artistically  decorated. 

Their  life  was  difficult,  but  confidently  did  they  believe  that  they  were 
dependent  upon  the  gods  to  make  the  rain  fall  and  the  corn  grow.  They 
were  a  religious  people  who  worshipped  the  sun  as  the  father  of  all  and  the 
earth  as  the  mother  who  brought  them  all  their  material  blessings.  They  pos- 
sessed no  written  language  and  could  only  record  their  thoughts  by  a  few  sym- 
bols which  they  painted  on  their  earthenware  jars  or  scratched  on  the  rocks. 

As  their  sense  of  beauty  was  keen,  their  art,  though  primitive,  was  true; 
rarely  realistic,  generally  symbolic.  Their  decoration  of  cotton  fabrics  and 
ceramic  work  might  be  called  beautiful,  even  when  judged  by  the  highly  devel- 
oped taste  of  to-day.  They  fashioned  axes,  spear  points,  and  rude  tools  of 
stone;  they  wove  sandals  and  made  attractive  basketry. 

They  were  not  content  with  rude  buildings  and  had  long  outgrown  the 
caves  that  satisfied  less  civilized  Indians  farther  north  and  south  of  them. 

The  photographs  of  Cliff  Palace  on  the  following  three  pages  will  show  not 
only  the  protection  afforded  by  the  overhanging  cliffs  but  the  general  scheme 
of  community  living. 

The  population  was  composed  of  a  series  of  units,  possibly  clans,  each  of 
which  had  its  own  social  organization  more  or  less  distinct  from  the  others. 
Each  had  ceremonial  rooms,  called  kivas.  Each  also  had  living  rooms  and 
storerooms.  There  were  twenty-three  social  units  or  clans  in  Cliff  Palace. 

The  kivas  were  the  rooms  where  the  men  spent  most  of  the  time  devoted 
to  ceremonies,  councils,  and  other  gatherings.  The  religious  fraternities  were 
limited  to  the  men  of  a  clan. 


CLIFF  PALACE  Is  THE  MOST  CELEBRATED  OF  THE    MESA  VERDE    RUINS  BECAUSE  IT  Is  THE 

LARGEST  AND  MOST  PROMINENT 

(MI) 


Photograph  by  Geo.  L.  Beam,  Deni-er,  Col 


LOOKING  ACROSS  CLIFF  CANYON  FROM  CUFF  PALACE;    SUN  TEMPLE  ON    EXTREME    RIGHT    IN 

DISTANCE  ON  TOP  OF  CLIFF 


Photograph  by  A  rlhur  Chapman 


THE  SQUARE  TOWER  OF  CLIFF  PALACE 


Photograph  by  Arthur  Chapman 


SPEAKER  CHIEF'S  HOUSE,  CLIFF  PALACE 


•. 

t 


Photograph  by  T.  G.  Lemmon 

STONES  FROM  SUN  TEMPLE  COVERED  WITH  GEOMETRICAL  AND  EMBLEMATICAL  DESIQNS 


THE  MESA'S  LITTLE  PEOPLE 

• 

NDIANS  of  to-day  shun  the  ruins  of  the  Mesa  Verde.     They  be- 
lieve them  inhabited  by  spirits  whom  they  call  the  Little  People. 
It  is  vain  to  tell  them  that  the  Little  People  were  their  own  an- 
cestors; they  refuse  to  believe  it. 
When  the  national  park  telephone  line  was  building  in  1915  the  Indians 
were  greatly  excited.     Corning  to  the  Supervisor's  office  to  trade,  they  shook 
their  heads  ominously. 

The  poles  wouldn't  stand  up,  they  declared.  Why?  Because  the  Little 
People  wouldn't  like  such  an  uncanny  thing  as  a  telephone. 

But  poles  were  standing,  the  Supervisor  pointed  out.  All  right,  the  Indians 
replied,  but  wait.  The  wires  wouldn't  talk.  Little  People  wouldn't  like  it. 

The  poles  were  finally  all  in  and  the  wires  strung.  What  was  more,  the 
wires  actually  did  talk  and  are  still  talking. 

Never  mind,  say  the  Indians,  with  unshaken  faith.  Never  mind.  Wait. 
That's  all.  It  will  come.  The  Little  People  may  stand  it — for  a  while.  But 
wait.  The  Supervisor  is  still  waiting. 


Pliotograj>h  by  F.  C.  Jeep 

CONSTRUCTIVE  DETAIL  OF  SOUTH  WALL,  SUN  TEMPLE 

DISCOVERY  OF  SUN  TEMPLE 

NTIL  the  summer  of  1915  no  structures  had  been  discovered  in 
the  Mesa  Verde  except  those  of  the  cliff-dwelling  type.  Then  the 
Department  of  the  Interior  explored  a  mound  on  the  top  of  the 
mesa  opposite  Cliff  Palace  and  unearthed  Sun  Temple.  Dr.  J. 
Walter  Fewkes,  who  conducted  the  exploration,  believes  that  this  was  built 
about  1300  A.  D.  and  marks  the  final  stage  in  Mesa  Verde  development. 

Sun  Temple  was  a  most  important  discovery.  It  marked  a  long  advance 
toward  civilization.  It  occupied  a  commanding  position  convenient  to  many 
large  inhabited  cliff  dwellings.  Its  masonry  showed  growth  in  the  art  of  con- 
struction. Its  walls  were  embellished  by  geometrical  figures  carved  in  rock. 

A  fossil  palm  leaf,  which  the  Cliff  Dwellers  supposed  to  be  a  divinely 
carved  image  of  the  sun,  is  embedded  in  the  temple's  walls. 


DRAWING  SHOWING  CONSTRUCTIVE  DETAIL  OF  SUN  TEMPLE 


65163° 21 JO 


(145) 


MODEL  or  FAR  VIEW  HOUSE 


Photograph  by  George  L.  Beam 

EXCAVATING  FAR  VIEW  HOUSE  ON  THE  TOP  OF  THE  MESA 

(146) 


SPRUCE  TREE  HOUSE  HIDES  UNDER  A  HUGE  OVERHANGING  CLIFF 


LIFF  PALACE  is  the  most  celebrated  of  the  Mesa  Verde  ruins 
because  it  is  the  largest  and  most  prominent.  Others  are  no  less 
interesting  and  important.  Spruce  Tree  House  is  next  in  size; 
Balcony  House  and  Square  Tower  House  are  equally  well  preserved. 
There  are  many  others;  some  of  which  have  yet  to  be  thoroughly  explored; 
probably  some  still  undiscovered. 

Cliff  Palace  is  three  hundred  feet  long;  Spruce  Tree  House  two  hundred  and 
sixteen.  Cliff  Palace  contained  probably  two  hundred  rooms;  Spruce  Tree 
House  a  hundred  and  fourteen.  Spruce  Tree  House  originally  had  three  stories. 
Its  population  was  probably  three  hundred  and  fifty. 

The  Round  Tower  in  Cliff  Palace  is  an  object  of  unusual  interest,  but  the 
ceremonial  kivas,  or  religious  rooms,  in  all  the  communities  are  usually  round 
and  often  were  entered  from  below. 

A  subterranean  entrance  to  Cliff  Palace  was  recently  discovered. 

CM?) 


ENTRANCE  TO  LOWER  FLOORS,  SPRUCE  TREE  HOUSE 


Photograph  by  Arthur  Chapman 

SPRUCE  TREE  HOUSE  AFTER  RESTORATION  BY  DR.  FEWKES 

(i4s) 


Photograph  by  Mrs.  C.  R.  Miller 

PHOTOGRAPHING  ONE  OF  THE  ROOMS  AT  BALCONY  HOUSE 

(149) 


Photograph  by  John  P.  Dods 


BY  MOTOR  TO  MESA  VERDE 


Photograph  by  John  P.  Dods 


A  MODERN  DESCENDANT 
dso) 


Photographs  by  J.  L.  Nusbaum 

TYPICAL  SKULLS  OF  PREHISTORIC  MAN  FOUND  IN  THE  MESA  VERDE 

These  skulls  show  an  unusual  breadth  as  compared  with  Indians  of  to-day,  though  of  the  same  ethno- 
logical type.  Nordenskiold  concludes  that  the  race  was  fairly  robust,  with  heavy  skeletons  and 
strong  muscular  processes.  The  facial  bones  are  well  developed  and  lower  jaw  heavy 

SUMMER  UPON  MESA  VERDE 

ESA  VERDE  NATIONAL  PARK  is  in  the  extreme  southwestern 
corner  of  Colorado  and  is  reached  by  two  routes  from  Denver.  A 
night  is  usually  spent  en  route,  and  the  ruins  are  reached  by 
wagon,  horseback,  or  automobile  from  Mancos. 
Apart  from  the  ruins,  the  country  is  one  of  much  beauty  and  interest.  The 
highest  spot  on  the  mesa  is  Park  Point,  8,515  feet  in  altitude.  The  mesa's 
northern  edge  is  a  fine  bluff  two  thousand  feet  above  the  Montezuma  Valley, 
whose  irrigation  lakes  and  brilliantly  green  fields  are  set  off  nobly  against  the 
distant  Rico  Mountains.  To  the  west  are  the  La  Salle  and  Blue  Mountains 
in  Utah,  with  Ute  Mountain  in  the  immediate  foreground. 

The  views  are  inspiring,  the  entire  country  "different."  In  the  spring  the  en- 
tire region  blooms.  It  used  to  be  a  country  of  wild  animals  and  at  times  deer  are 
still  plentiful.  There  is  a  fairly  comfortable  camp  near  Spruce  Tree  House. 

An  unusual  attraction  of  the  summer  of  1915  was  the  unearthing  of  the 
great  mound  which  covered  Sun  Temple.  Dr.  Fewkes  maintained  a  camp  near 
the  mound  and  lectured  almost  nightly  to  those  who  gathered  around  his  camp 
fire.  The  same  informal  custom  will  probably  be  resumed  during  succeeding 
summers  while  the  exploration  of  other  suggestive  mounds  is  progressing. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  A  SACRED  KIVA 


Photograph  by  Mrs.  C.  R.  Miller 


STONE  CHAIRS  FOUND  AT  THE  CLIFF  PALACE 

(154) 


GLACIER 

NATIONAL 

PARK 


(155) 


Photograph  by  A.  J.  Baker 


MOUNT  CLEVELAND,  HIGHEST  SUMMIT  IN  GLACIER 


Photographby  National  Park  Service 

GUNSIGHT  PASS  FROM  SHORE  OF  GuNSlGHT  LAKE 

AN    ALPINE    PARADISE 

OTWITHSTANDING   the   sixty  glaciers  from  which  it   derives  its 
name,  the  Glacier  National  Park  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  its  pic- 
turesquely   modeled    peaks,    the    unique    quality   of    its   mountain 
masses,  its  gigantic  precipices,  and   the  romantic  loveliness  of  its 
two  hundred  and  fifty  lakes. 

Though  most  of  our  national  parks  possess  similar  general  features  in  addi- 
tion to  those  which  sharply  differentiate  each  from  every  other,  the  Glacier 
National  Park  shows  them  in  special  abundance  and  unusually  happy  combina- 
tion. In  fact,  it  is  the  quite  extraordinary,  almost  sensational,  massing  of  these 
scenic  elements  which  gives  it  its  marked  individuality. 

The  broken  and  diversified  character  of  this  scenery,  involving  rugged 
mountain  tops  bounded  by  vertical  walls  sometimes  more  than  four  thousand 
feet  high,  glaciers  perched  upon  lofty  rocky  shelves,  unexpected  waterfalls  of 
peculiar  charm,  rivers  of  milky  glacier  water,  lakes  unexcelled  for  sheer  beauty 
by  the  most  celebrated  of  sunny  Italy  and  snow -topped  Switzerland,  and  grandly 
timbered  slopes  sweeping  into  valley  bottoms,  offer  a  continuous  yet  ever 
changing  series  of  inspiring  vistas  not  to  be  found  in  such  luxuriance  and  per- 
fection elsewhere. 

Glacier  National  Park  lies  in  western  Montana,  abutting  the  Canadian 
boundary.  Waterton  Lakes  Park  joins  it  on  the  Canadian  side. 

(157) 


Photograph  by  Beatrix  Barber 


CRACKER  LAKE  AND  SIYEH  GLACIER 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 

You  SEEM  MENACED  BY  GLACIERS  AND  WATERFALLS  UPON  EVERY  SIDE 

Avalanche  Lake,  fed  from  the  Sperry  Glacier  above,  lies  in  a  cirque  whose  precipices  rise  thousands 

of  feet 
(159) 


(i6o) 


65163° 21 II 


MAKING  A  NATIONAL  PARK 


OW  nature,  just  how  many  millions  of  years  ago  no  man  can  esti- 
mate, made  the  Glacier  National  Park  is  a  stirring  story. 

Once  this  whole  region  was  covered  with  the  prehistoric  sea. 
The  earthy  sediments  deposited  by  this  water  hardened  into  rocky 
strata.  If  you  were  in  the  park  to-day  you  would  see  broad  horizontal  streaks 
of  variously  colored  rock  in  the  mountain  masses  thousands  of  feet  above  you. 
They  are  discernible  in  the  photographs  in  this  book.  They  are  the  very  strata 
that  the  waters  deposited  in  their  depths  in  those  far-away  ages.  How  they 
got  from  the  seas'  bottoms  to  the  mountains'  tops  is  the  story. 

In  the  settling  of  the 
earth's  masses  into  their 
present  shape,  mountain 
ranges  have  arisen  from 
the  sea  by  internal  pres- 
sures. Just  as  the  squeezed 
orange  bulges  in  places,  so 
this  region  was  forced  up- 
ward. Then  it  cracked  and 
the  western  edge  of  the 
earth's  skin  was  thrust 
far  over  the  eastern  edge. 
The  edge  thus  thrust 
over  was  many  thousands 
of  feet  thick  and  disclosed 
all  the  geological  strata 
which  had  been  deposited 
at  that  time.  In  the  many 
centuries  of  centuries  since 
all  these  strata  have  been 
washed  away  except  the 
bottom  layer  of  the  over- 
thrust  skin.  The  rock  thus 
disclosed  is  at  least  eighty 
millions  of  years  old.  It  is 
the  same  rock  as  the  Grand 
Canyon.  Glacier  National 
Park  is  the  Canadian  Rock- 
ies done  in  Grand  Canyon 
colors.  Frost  and  rain  and 
glaciers,  have  marvelously 


Photograph  by  Ellis  Prentice  Cole 

ICEBERG  LAKE  WHERE  FLOES  DRIFT  IN  AUGUST 


carved  it. 


Photograph  by  A.S.  Thin 

THE  CIRCULAR  WALL  ON  THE  LEFT  INCLOSES  ICEBERG  LAKE.  THE  ENORMOUS  CIRQUE  ON 
THE  RIGHT,  WITH  LAKE  HELEN  SHOWN  IN  THE  LOWER  RIGHT  HAND  CORNER,  is  THE 
SOURCE  OF  THE  SOUTH  FORK  OF  THE  BELLY  RIVER.  THE  PHOTOGRAPH  REMARKABLY 
ILLUSTRATES  THE  WORKMANSHIP  OF  ANCIENT  GLACIERS  THROUGHOUT  THE  PARK 


HE  titanic  overthrust  which  makes  Glacier  what  it  is  was  not  accom- 
plished all  at  once.  The  movement  covered  millions  of  years;  change 
might  even  have  been  imperceptible  in  the  life  of  one  living  there  — 
though  this  was  long  before  man.  And  during  these  same  many 
millions  of  years  frost  and  water  and  wind  and  glacier  erosion  were  wiping  off  the 
upper  strata  and  carving  the  ancient  rocks  that  still  remain  into  the  thing  of 
beauty  that  Glacier  is  to-day. 

To  picture  this  region,  imagine  a  chain  of  very  lofty  mountains  twisting 
about  like  a  worm,  spotted  with  snow  fields  and  bearing  glistening  glaciers. 
Imagine  them  flanked  everywhere  by  lesser  peaks  and  tumbled  mountain 
masses  of  smaller  size  in  whose  hollows  lie  the  most  beautiful  lakes  you  have 
ever  dreamed  of. 

Those  who  have  seen  the  giant  glaciers  of  Mount  Rainier  or  the  Alps  will 
here  see  what  glaciers  of  much  greater  size  accomplished  in  ages  past.  Iceberg 
Lake,  for  example,  is  a  mighty  bowl  shaped  like  a  horseshoe,  with  sides  more  than 
two  thousand  feet  high.  A  glacier  hollowed  it.  Just  north  of  it,  the  Belly  Gla- 
cier hollowed  another  mammoth  bowl  of  even  greater  depth;  the  wall  dividing 
them  is  seen  in  the  photograph  on  this  page.  Vast  pits  such  as  these  were  dug 
by  prehistoric  glaciers  into  both  sides  of  the  mountains.  Often  they  nearly  met, 
leaving  precipitous  walls.  Sometimes  they  met;  thus  were  created  the  passes. 

(163) 


Photograph  by  A.  J.  Baker 

ClROUE    AT    THE    HEAD    OF    CUT    BANK    RlVER,    SHOWING    MOUNT    MORGAN 

(164) 


Photograph  by  A.  J.  Baker 

CUT  BANK  PASS — TRAIL  LEADS  UP  APPARENTLY  PERPENDICULAR  WALL 


ITS    LAKES    AND    VALLEYS 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 


HE  supreme  glory  of  the 
Glacier  National  Park  is  its 
lakes.  The  world  has  none 
to  surpass,  perhaps  few  to 
equal  them.  Some  are  valley  gems 
grown  to  the  water's  edge  with  forests. 
Some  are  cradled  among  precipices. 
Some  float  ice  fields  in  midsummer. 

From  the  Continental  Divide  seven 
principal  valleys  drop  precipitously 
upon  the  east,  twelve  sweep  down  the 
longer  western  slopes.  Each  valley 
holds  between  its  feet  its  greater  lake 
to  which  are  tributary  many  smaller 
lakes  of  astonishing  wildness. 

On  the  east  side  St.  Mary  Lake  is 
destined  to  world-wide  celebrity,  but  so 
also  is  Lake  McDonald  on  the  west  side. 
These  are  the  largest  in  the  park. 

But  some,  perhaps  many,  of  the 
smaller  lakes  are  candidates  for  beauty's 
highest  honors.  Of  these,  Lake  McDer- 
mott  with  its  minaretted  peaks  stands 
first — perhaps  because  best  known,  for 
here  is  one  of  the  finest  hotels  in  any 
national  park  and  a  luxurious  camp. 

Upper  Two  Medicine  Lake  is  an- 
other east-side  candidate  widely  known 
because  of  its  accessibility,  while  far  to 
the  north  the  Belly  River  Valley,  diffi- 
cult to  reach  and  seldom  seen,  holds 
lakes,  fed  by  eighteen  glaciers,  which 
will  compare  with  Switzerland's  noblest. 

The  west-side  valleys  north  of  Mc- 
Donald constitute  a  little-known  wil- 
derness of  the  earth's  choicest  scenery, 
destined  to  future  appreciation. 

The  Continental  Divide  is  usually 
crossed  by  the  famous  Gunsight  Pass 
Trail,  which  skirts  giant  precipices  and 
develops  sensational  vistas  in  its  ser- 
pentine course. 

(166) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

BIRTH  OF  A  CLOUD  ON  THE  SIDE  OF  MOUNT  ROCKWELL,  Two  MEDICINE  LAKE 


Photograph  by  U,  S.  Reclamation  Service 

EARLY  MORNING  CLOUD  EFFECTS  AT  Two  MEDICINE  LAKE 

Romantic  Rising- Wolf  Mountain  is  seen  in  middle  distance 

(167) 


" 


Photograph  by  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 

IT  Is  THE  ROMANTIC,  ALMOST  SENSATIONAL  MASSING  OF  EXTRAORDINARY  SCENIC  I 
Beautiful  St.  Mary  Lake  with  Going-to-the-Sun  Camp  in  the  foregro( 

(i68> 


IENTS  WHICH  GIVES  THE  GLACIER  NATIONAL  PARK  ITS  MARKED  INDIVIDUALITY 
Citadel  Mountain  in  left  center,  Fusillade  Mountain  to  the  right 


(l6q) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Sen-ice 

INTERIOR  OF  MANY  GLACIER  HOTEL,  LAKE  MCDERMOTT 

(170) 


Photograph  by  L.  D.  Lindsley 


THE  END  OF  THE  DAY 


COMFORT  AMONG  GLACIERS 


SMALL  but  imposing  aggregate  of  the  scenery  of  the  Glacier 
National  Park  is  available  to  the  comfort-loving  traveler.  There 
are  two  entrances,  each  with  a  railroad  station.  The  visitor 
choosing  the  east  entrance,  at  Glacier  Park,  will  find  autostages 
to  Two  Medicine  Lake,  St.  Mary  Lake,  and  Lake  McDermott. 

At  the  railway  station  and  at  Lake  McDermott  are  elaborate  modern  hotels 
with  every  convenience.  At  Two  Medicine  Lake,  at  St.  Mary  and  Upper 
St.  Mary  Lakes,  at  Cut  Bank  Creek,  at  Lake  McDermott,  at  a  superb  point 
below  the  Sperry  Glacier,  and  at  Granite  Park  are  chalets  or  camps,  or  both, 
where  excellent  accommodations  may  be  had  at  modest  charges. 

The  visitor  choosing  the  west  entrance,  at  Belton,  will  find  camps  and 
chalets  there,  and  an  autostage  to  beautiful  Lake  McDonald,  at  the  upper 
end  of  which  is  a  hotel  of  comfort  and  individuality,  reached  by  boat. 
There  is  also  boat  service  on  Upper  St.  Mary  Lake. 

But  if  the  enterprising  traveler  desires  to  know  this  wilderness  wonder- 
land in  all  its  moods  and  phases,  he  must  equip  himself  for  the  rough  trail 
and  the  wayside  camp.  Thus  he  may  devote  weeks,  months,  summers  to 
the  benefiting  of  his  health  and  the  uplifting  of  his  soul. 

(171) 


Photograph  by  L.  D.  Lindsley 

THE  MOUNTAINEERS  ON  TOUR — WASH  DAY  AT  NYACK  LAKE 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

To    THE  VICTOR   BELONG  THE  SPOILS 
Mary  Roberts  Rinehart  lunching  after  a  morning's  trouting  on  Flarhead  River 


Photograph  by  George  V.  Dauchy 

BEAUTIFUL  LAKE  MCDONALD.  LOOKING  NORTHEAST 
Mount  Cannon,  cloud  shrouded,  is  in  the  middle  distance;   Mount  Brown  on  the  right 


Photograph  by  U,  S.  Reclamation  Service 

THE  COMFORTABLE  HOTEL  NEAR  THE  HEAD  OF  LAKE  MCDONALD 

(173) 


U74) 


Photograph  by  National  Park  Service 

GLENNS  LAKE,  PYRAMID  PEAK,  AND  THE  SHEPARD  GLACIER 

(175) 


cc 


(176) 


6516^° — 21 12 


CREATURES  OF  THE  WILD 


G 


LACIER,  once  the 
favorite  hunting 
ground  of  the 
Blackfeet  and  now 
for  fifteen  years  strictly  pre- 
served, has  a  large  and  grow- 
ing population  of  creatures  of 
the  wild.  Its  rocks  and  preci- 
pices fit  it  especially  to  be  the 
home  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
sheep  and  the  mountain  goat. 

Both  of  these  large  and 
hardy  climbers  are  found  in 
Glacier  in  great  numbers. 
They  constitute  a  familiar 
sight  in  many  of  the  places 
most  frequented  by  tourists. 

Trout  fishing  is  particu- 
larly fine.  The  trout  are  of 
half  a  dozen  western  vari- 
eties, of  which  perhaps  the 
cutthroat  is  the  most  com- 
mon. In  Lake  St.  Mary  the 
Mackinaw  is  caught  up  to 
twenty  pounds  in  weight. 

So  widely  are  they  distrib- 
uted that  it  is  difficult  to 
name  lakes  of  special  fishing 
importance. 


Photograph  by  Fred  H,  Kiser,  Portland,  Oregon 

SUMMIT  OF  APPISTOKI  MOUNTAIN 
(178) 


THE 

ROCKY  MOUNTAIN 
NATIONAL  PARK 


(180) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

FALL  RIVER  ENTRANCE  TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  NATIONAL  PARK 


"TOP  OF  THE  WORLD" 

OR  many  years  the  Mecca  of  eastern  mountain  lovers  has  been  the 
Rockies.  For  many  years  the  name  has  summed  European  ideas 
of  American  mountain  grandeur.  Yet  it  was  not  until  1915  that 
a  particular  section  of  the  enormous  area  of  magnificent  and  diver- 
sified scenic  range  thus  designated  was  chosen  as  the  representative  of  the 
noblest  qualities  of  the  whole.  This  is  the  Rocky  Mountain  National  Park. 

And  it  is  splendidly  representative.  In  nobility,  in  calm  dignity,  in  the 
sheer  glory  of  stalwart  beauty,  there  is  no  mountain  group  to  excel  the  company 
of  snow-capped  veterans  of  all  the  ages  which  stands  at  everlasting  parade 
behind  its  grim,  helmeted  captain,  Longs  Peak. 

There  is  probably  no  other  scenic  neighborhood  of  the  first  order  which 
combines  mountain  outlines  so  bold  with  a  quality  of  beauty  so  intimate  and 
refined.  Just  to  live  in  the  valleys  in  the  eloquent  and  ever-changing  presence 
of  these  carved  and  tinted  peaks  is  itself  satisfaction.  But  to  climb  into  their 
embrace,  to  know  them  in  the  intimacy  of  their  bare  summits  and  their  flowered, 
glaciated  gorges,  is  to  turn  a  new  and  unforgettable  page  in  experience. 

The  park  straddles  the  Continental  Divide  at  a  point  of  supreme  magnificence. 
Its  eastern  gateway  is  beautiful  Estes  Park,  a  valley  village  of  many  hotels  from 
which  access  up  to  the  most  noble  heights  and  into  the  most  picturesque  recesses 
of  the  Rockies  is  easy  and  comfortable.  Its  western  entrance  is  Grand  Lake. 


w 

> 


W 
O 
oi 
O 

O 


w 

w 

a 

H 


I 

CO 


THE  KING  AND  HIS  KINGDOM 


HE     Snowy     Range     lies,     roughly 
speaking,  north  and  south.     From 
valleys  8,000  feet  high,  the  peaks 
rise    to    12,000    and    14,000    feet. 
Longs  Peak  measures  14,255  feet. 

The  gentler  slopes  are  on  the  west,  a  region 
of  loveliness,  heavily  wooded,  diversified  by 
gloriously  modeled  mountain  masses,  and 
watered  by  many  streams  and  rock-bound 
lakes.  The  western  entrance,  Grand  Lake,  is 
a  thriving  center  of  hotel  and  cottage  life. 

On  the  east  side  the  descent  from  the  Con- 
tinental Divide  is  steep  in  the  extreme.  Preci- 
pices two  or  three  thousand  feet  plunging  into 
gorges  carpeted  with  snow  patches  and  wild 
flowers  are  common.  Seen  from  the  east-side 
villages,  this  range  rises  in  daring  relief,  craggy 
in  outline,  snow-spattered,  awe-inspiring. 

Midway  of  the  range  and  standing  boldly 
forward  from  its  western  side,  Longs  Peak 
rears  his  lofty,  square-crowned  head.  A  veri- 
table King  of  Mountains — stalwart,  majestic. 

Amazingly  diversified  is  this  favored  region. 

The  valleys  are  checkered  with  broad, 
flowery  opens  and  luxuriant  groves  of  white- 
stemmed  aspens  and  dark-leaved  pines.  Sing- 
ing rivers  and  shining  lakes  abound.  Frost- 
sculptured  granite  cliffs  assume  picturesque 
shapes.  Always  some  group  of  peaks  has 
caught  and  held  the  wandering  clouds. 

Very  different  are  the  mountain  vistas. 
From  the  heights  stretches  on  every  hand  a 
tumbled  sea  of  peaks.  Dark  gorges  open 
underfoot.  Massive  granite  walls  torn  from 
their  fastenings  in  some  unimaginable  upheaval 
in  ages  before  man  impose  their  gray  faces. 
Far  in  the  distance  lie  patches  of  molten 
silver  which  are  lakes,  and  threads  of  silver 
which  are  rivers,  and  mists  which  conceal  far-off 
valleys.  On  sunny  days  lies  to  the  east  a 
dim  sea  which  is  the  Great  Plain. 

(183) 


Photograph  by  Enos  Mills 

MOUNT  COPELAND 


o 

O 
O 

o 
C 


o 
o 

H-l 


(184) 


(i8S) 


(186) 


I 
H 


(187) 


Photograph  by  Enos  Mills 


RECORDS  OF  THE  GLACIERS 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

MOONLIGHT  ON  GRAND  LAKE 


FEATURE  of  this 
region  is  the  read- 
ability of  its  records 
of  glacial  action 
during  the  ages  when  America 
was  making.  In  few  other 
spots  do  these  evidences,  in  all' 
their  variety,  make  themselves 
so  prominent  to  the  casual  eye. 
There  is  scarcely  any  part 
of  the  eastern  side  where  some 
enormous  moraine  does  not 
force  itself  upon  passing  atten- 
tion. One  of  the  valley  villages, 
Moraine  Park,  is  so  named  from 
a  moraine  built  out  for  miles 
across  the  valley's  floor  by  an- 
cient parallel  glaciers. 

Scarcely  less  prominent  is 
the  long  curving  hill  called  the 
Mills  Moraine,  after  Enos  Mills, 
the  naturalist,  who  is  known 
in  Colorado  as  "the  father  of 
the  Rocky  Mountain  National 
Park." 

In  short,  this  park  is  itself  a 
primer  of  glacial  geology  whose 
simple,  self-evident  lessons  im- 
mediately disclose  the  key  to  one 
of  nature 's chief  est  scenic  secrets. 


(188) 


Photograph  by  Willis  T.  Lee 

LONGS  PEAK  FROM  BOULDER  FIELD 
At  the  extreme  rioht  is  seen  the  "Keyhole"  through  which  the  summit  is  reached 


Photograph  by  Willis  T.  Le 


FULL  COURSE  OF  THE  MILLS  MORAINE 


The  mighty  glacier  that  heaped   it  a  thousand   feet  high  was  born  at  the  foot  of  Longs  Peak 
precipice.     The  moraine  is  four  miles  long 


Photograph  by  John  King  'Sherman 

THE  CHISELED  WESTERN  WALL  OF  LOCH  VALE 

PRECIPICE -WALLED   GORGES 


Photograph  by  John  King  Sherman 

CHASM  LAKE  AND  LONGS  PEAK 


DISTINGUISHED  fea- 
ture of  the  park  is  its 
profusion  of  cliff-cradled, 
glacier-watered  valleys 
unexcelled  for  wildness  and  the  glory 
of  their  flowers.  Here  grandeur  and 
romantic  beauty  compete. 

These  valleys  lie  in  two  groups, 
one  north,  the  other  south  of  Longs 
Peak,  in  the  angles  of  the  main  range ; 
the  northern  group  called  the  Wild 
Garden,  the  southern  group  called 
the  Wild  Basin. 

There  are  few  spots,  for  instance, 
so  impressively  beautiful  as  Loch 
Vale,  with  its  three  shelved  lakes 
lying  two  thousand  feet  sheer  be- 
low Taylors  Peak.  Adjoining  is 
Glacier  Gorge  at  the  foot  of  the 
precipitous  north  slope  of  Longs 
Peak,  holding  in  rocky  embrace  its 
own  group  of  three  lakelets. 

The  Wild  Basin,  with  its  wealth 
of  lake  and  precipice,  still  remains 
unexploited  and  known  to  few. 


FEW  MOUNTAIN  GORGES  ARE  So  IMPRESSIVELY  BEAUTIFUL  AS  LOCH  VALE 

(191) 


Photograph  by  George  H.  Harvey 

GRAND  LAKE  FROM  THE  CONTINENTAL  DIVIDE 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

CACHE  LA  POUDRE  VALLEY  AT  FOOT  OF  SPECIMEN  MOUNTAIN 


Photograph  by  Wiswall  Brothers 

SKY  POND  AND  TAYLOR  PEAK,  WILD  GARDENS 

65163°— 21 13  (193) 


Photograph  by  Enos  Mills 


'THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL" 


Photograph  by  George  C,  Barnard,  Denver 

AN  IDEAL  COUNTRY  FOR  WINTER  SPORTS 

(194) 


Photograph  by  Wiswall  Brothers 


BLUEBIRD  LAKE,  WILD  BASIN 

(195) 


fe r* 


M^ 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

ODESSA  LAKE  Is  ALMOST  ENCIRCLED  BY  SNOW-SPATTERED  SUMMITS 

(196) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

SPRUCE-GIRDLED    FERN   LAKE,   SHOWING   LlTTLE   MATTERHORN    IN   MlDDLE   DISTANCE 

(197) 


METROPOLIS  0/BEAVERLAND 


Copyright  by  Wiswall  Brothers.  Denver 

AN  ASPEN  THICKET  TRAIL  Is  A  PATH  OF 
DELIGHT 


HE  visitor  will  not  forget 
the  aspens  in  the  Rocky 
Mountain  National 
Park.  Their  white  trunks 
and  branches  and  their  luxuriant 
bright  green  foliage  are  never  out 
of  sight.  A  trail  through  an  aspen 
thicket  is  a  path  of  delight. 

Because  of  the  unusual  aspen 
growths,  the  region  is  the  favored 
home  of  beavers,  who  make  the 
tender  bark  their  principal  food. 
Beaver  dams  block  countless  streams 
and  beaver  houses  emerge  from  the 
still  ponds  above.  In  some  retired 
spots  the  engineering  feats  of  gener- 
ations of  beaver  families  may  be 
traced  in  all  their  considerable  range. 

Nowhere  is  the  picturesqueness 
of  timber  line  more  quickly  and  more 
easily  seen.  A  horse  after  early 
breakfast,  a  steep  mountain  trail,  an 
hour  of  unique  enjoyment,  and  one 
may  be  back  for  late  luncheon. 

Eleven  thousand  feet  up,  the 
winter  struggles  between  trees  and 
icy  gales  are  grotesquely  exhibited. 

The  first  sight  of  luxuriant  En- 
gelmann  spruces  creeping  closely 
upon  the  ground  instead  of  rising  a 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  straight  and 
true  as  masts  is  not  soon  forgotten. 
Many  stems  strong  enough  to  partly 
defy  the  winters'  gales  grow  bent  in 
half  circles.  Others,  starting  straight 
in  shelter  of  some  large  rock,  bend 
at  right  angles  where  they  emerge 
above  it.  Many  succeed  in  lifting 
their  trunks  but  not  in  growing 
branches  except  in  their  lee,  thus  sug- 
gesting great  evergreen  dust  brushes. 


Photograph  by  Enos  Mills 


BEAVER  DAMS  BLOCK  COUNTLESS  STREAMS 


Photograph  by  Enos  Mills 


WIND-TWISTED  TREES  AT  TIMBER-LINE 

(199) 


MIDWAY  OF  THE  RANGE,  LONGS  PEAK  REARS  His  STATELY,  SQUARE-CROUNEI 

This  is  the  very  heart  of  the  Rockies;  few  photc 


(200) 


D;  A  VERITABLE  KING  OF  MOUNTAINS  CALMLY  OVERLOOKING  ALL  His  REALM 
5  so  fully  express  the  spirit  of  the  Snowy  Range 


(201) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

THE  STANLEY  HOTEL  AND  MANOR 


EASY  TO  REACH  AND  TO  SEE 

HE  accessibility  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  National  Park  is  apparent 
by  a  glance  at  any  map.     Denver  is  less  than  thirty  hours  from 
St.  Louis  and  Chicago,  two  days  only  from  New  York.     Four  hours 
from  Denver  will  put  you  in  Estes  Park. 
Once  there,  comfortable  in  one  of  its  many  hotels  of  varying  range  of  tariff, 
and  the  summits  and  the  gorges  of  this  mountain-top  paradise  resolve  them- 
selves into  a  choice  between  foot  and  horseback. 

There  are  also  a  few  most  comfortable  houses  and  several  somewhat  primi- 
tive camps  within  the  park's  boundaries  at  the  very  foot  of  its  noblest  scenery. 


LONGS  PEAK  INN;  ALTITUDE  9,000  FEET 

Longs  Peak  (14,255  feet)  in  the  center  of  the  triple  mountain  group,  flanked  by  Mount  Meeker  on 
the  left  and  Mount  Lady  Washington  on  the  right;  across  their  front  is  the  Mills  Moraine 


(202) 


THE 

GRAND  CANYON 

NATIONAL 
PARK 


BY  FAR  THE  MOST  SUBLIME  OF  ALL  EARTHLY  SPECTACLES." — CHARLES  DUDLEY  WARNER 


Photograph  by  George  R.  King 

"!T  Is  BEYOND  COMPARISON — BEYOND  DESCRIPTION;  ABSOLUTELY  UNPARALLELED 
THROUGHOUT  THE  WIDE  WORLD." — THEODORE  ROOSEVELT 

(204) 


Photograph  by  U,  S.  Reclamation  Service 

LEAVING  EL  TOVAR  FOR  A  SCENIC  RIM  DRIVE 


COLOSSUS  OF  CANYONS 

ORE  mysterious  in  its  depth  than  the  Himalayas  in  their  height," 
writes  Professor  John  C.  Van  Dyke,  "the  Grand  Canyon  remains 
not  the  eighth  but  the  first  wonder  of  the  world.  There  is  nothing 
like  it." 

Even  the  most  superficial  description  of  this  enormous  spectacle  may  not 
be  put  in  words.  The  wanderer  upon  the  rim  overlooks  a  thousand  square 
miles  of  pyramids  and  minarets  carved  from  the  painted  depths.  Many  miles 
away  and  more  than  a  mile  below  the  level  of  his  feet  he  sees  a  tiny  silver 
thread  which  he  knows  is  the  giant  Colorado. 

He  is  numbed  by  the  spectacle.  -  At  first  he  can  not  comprehend  it.  There 
is  no  measure,  nothing  which  the  eye  can  grasp,  the  mind  fathom. 

It  may  be  hours  before  he  can  even  slightly  adjust  himself  to  the  titanic 
spectacle,  before  it  ceases  to  be  utter  chaos;  and  not  until  then  does  he  begin 
to  exclaim  in  rapture. 

And  he  never  wholly  adjusts  himself,  for  with  dawning  appreciation  comes 
growing  wonder.  Comprehension  lies  always  just  beyond  his  reach. 

The  Colorado  River  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Grand  and  the 
Green  Rivers.  Together  they  gather  the  waters  of  three  hundred  thousand 
square  miles.  Their  many  canyons  reach  this  magnificent  climax  in  northern 

Arizona.     The  Grand  Canyon  became  a  national  park  in  February,  1919. 

(205) 


(206) 


•*•;  **<-   '-"Hi 

31    ' 


. 


Photograph  by  Henry  F  Hermann 

THE  RIM  ROAD  AFFORDS  MANY  GLORIOUS  VIEWS 

BY  SUNSET  AND   MOONRISE 


the  light  falls  into  it,  harsh,   direct,   and  searching,"   writes 

WHamlin  Garland,  "it  is  great,  but  not  beautiful.  The  lines  are 
chaotic,  disturbing — but  wait!  The  clouds  and  the  sunset,  the 
moonrise  and  the  storm,  will  transform  it  into  a  splendor  no 
mountain  range  can  surpass.  Peaks  will  shift  and  glow,  walls  darken,  crags 
take  fire,  and  gray-green  mesas,  dimly  seen,  take  on  the  gleam  of  opalescent 
lakes  of  mountain  water." 


Copyright  by  Fred  Harvey 

HERMIT'S  REST,  NEAR  THE  HEAD  OF  THE  HERMIT  TRAIL  TO  THE  RIVER 

(208) 


Photograph  by  U  .  S.  Reclamation  Service 


.     . 

"Is  ANY  FIFTY  MILES  OF  MOTHER  EARTH  AS  FEARFUL,  OR  ANY  PART  AS  FEARFUL,  AS 
FULL  OF  GLORY,  AS  FULL  OF  GOD?"  —  JOAQUIN  MILLER 

65163°  —  21  --  14  (209) 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

STILL  FARTHER  DOWN  THE  HERMIT  TRAIL 


PAINTED  IN  MAGIC  COLORS 

HH  blues  and  the  grays  and  the  mauves  and  the  reds  are  second 
in  glory  only  to  the  canyon's  size  and  sculpture.  The  colors 
change  with  every  changing  hour.  The  morning  and  the  evening 
shadows  play  magicians'  tricks. 
"It  seems  like  a  gigantic  statement  for  even  Nature  to  make  all  in  one 
mighty  stone  word,"  writes  John  Muir.  "Wildness  so  Godful,  cosmic,  prime- 
val, bestows  a  new  sense  of  earth's  beauty  and  size.  .  .  .  But  the  colors,  the 
living,  rejoicing  colors,  chanting  morning  and  evening  in  chorus  to  heaven! 
Whose  brush  or  pencil,  however  lovingly  inspired,  can  give  us  these?  In  the 
supreme  flaming  glory  of  sunset  the  whole  canyon  is  transfigured,  as  if  the 
life  and  light  of  centuries  of  sunshine  stored  up  in  the  rocks  was  now  being 
poured  forth  as  from  one  glorious  fountain,  flooding  both  earth  and  sky." 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 


NEAR  THE  BOTTOM,  SHOWING  HERMIT  CAMP  AT  THE  FOOT  OF  A  LOFTY  MONUMENT 

This  photograph  was  taken  several  years  ago.     The  camp  has  since  been  greatly  enlarged,  affording 

most  comfortable  entertainment  overnight 


(2n) 


Photograph  by  F.  A.  Lathe 


THE  PROFOUND  ABYSS 


ROMANTIC  INDIAN  LEGEND 

HFf  Indians  believed  the  Grand  Canyon  the  road  to  heaven. 

A  great  chief  mourned  the  death  of  his  wife.     To  him  came 
the  god  Ta-vwoats  and  offered  to  prove  that  his  wife  was  in  a 
happier   land   by  taking   him   there   to  look  upon   her  happiness. 
Ta-vwoats  then  made  a  trail  through  the  protecting  mountains  and  led  the 
chief  to  the  happy  land.     Thus  was  created  the  canyon  gorge  of  the  Colorado. 
On  their  return,  lest  the  unworthy  should  find  this  happy  land,  Ta-vwoats 
rolled  through  the  trail  a  wild,  surging  river.     Thus  was  created  the  Colorado. 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Forest  Service 

THE  GORGE  NEAR  THE  MOUTH  OF  SHINUMO  CREEK. 

(213) 


Copyright  bv  Fred  Harvey 

HOPI  HOUSE  AT  EL  TOVAR,  REPRODUCED  FROM  AN  ANCIENT  HOPI  COMMUNITY  DWELLING 

(214) 


Copyright  by  Fred  Harvey 

WHEN  CLOUDS  AND  CANYON  MEET  AND  MERGE 


MASTERPIECE   OF   EROSION 


T 


HB  rain  falling  in  the  plowed  field  forms  rivulets  in  the  furrows.  The 
rivulets  unite  in  a  muddy  torrent  in  the  roadside  gutter.  With  suc- 
ceeding showers  the  gutter  wears  an  ever-deepening  channel  in  the 
soft  soil.  With  the  passing  season  the  gutter  becomes  a  gully. 
Here  and  there,  in  places,  its  banks  undermine  and  fall  in.  Here  and  there  the 
rivulets  from  the  field  wear  tiny  tributary  gullies.  Between  the  breaks  in  the 
banks  and  the  tributaries  irregular  masses  of  £arth  remain  standing,  sometimes 
resembling  mimic  cliffs,  sometimes  washed  and  worn  into  mimic  peaks  and  spires. 
Such  roadside  erosion  is  familiar  to  us  all.  A  hundred  times  we  have  idly 
noted  the  fantastic  water-carved  walls  and  minaretted  slopes  of  these  ditches. 
But  seldom,  perhaps,  have  we  realized  that  the  muddy  roadside  ditch  and 
the  world-famous  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado  are,  from  nature's  stand- 
point, identical;  that  they  differ  only  in  soil  and  size. 

The  arid  States  of  our  great  Southwest  constitute  an  enormous  plateau 
or  table-land  from  four  to  eight  thousand  feet  above  sea  level. 

Rivers  gather  into  a  few  desert  water  systems.  The  largest  of  these  is  that 
which,  in  its  lower  courses,  has,  in  unnumbered  ages,  worn  the  mighty  chasm 
of  the  Colorado. 


Copyright  by  Fred  Harvey 

SUNSET  FROM  PIMA  POINT.    "PEAKS  WILL  SHIFT  AND  GLOW,  WALLS  DARKEN,  CRAGS  TAJ 


(216) 


IE,  AND  GRAY-GREEN  MESAS,  DIMLY  SEEN,  TAKE  ON  THE  GLEAM  OF  OPALESCENT  LAKES." — 
IARLAND 


(219) 


~»  ^a^Tj 


* 


Photograph  by  U.  S.  Reclamation  Service 

THE  LOOKOUT  AT  THE  HEAD  OF  THE  BRIGHT  ANGEL  TRAIL  NEAR  EL  TOVAR 


Photograph  by  L' .  S.  Reclamation  Service 

WAITING  FOR  THE  SIGNAL  TO  START  DOWN  BRIGHT  ANGEL  TRAIL 

One  may  descend  to  the  river's  edge  and  back  in  one  day  by  this  trail 

(220) 


Copyright  by  Fred  Harvey 

THE  CELEBRATED  JACOB'S  LADDER  ON  THE  BRIGHT  ANGEL  TRAIL 

The  photograph  shows  how  broad  and  safe  are  the  Grand  Canyon  trails.     There  is  no  danger  in 

the  descent 
(MI) 


-•- 


Photograph  bv  U.  S.  Forest  Service 


ON  THE  MIGHTY  RIVER'S  BRINK 


A  QUIET  STRETCH  BETWEEN  Two  RAPIDS 

Within  the  Canyon  the  river  is  crossed  by  cars  suspended  on  wire  cables,  and  also,  in  quiet  reaches, 

by  boats;  there  are  no  bridges 


Copyright  by  Fred  Harvey 

WHERE  THE  RIVER  RESTS  BELOW  THE  CELEBRATED  MARBLE  CANYON  BEFORE  TAKING  ITS 
PLUNGE  INTO  THE  GIGANTIC  CANYON  BELOW 

The  Colorado  rolls  through  many  miles  of  vast  canyons  before  it  reaches  Grand  Canyon 


POWELL'S    GREAT    ADVENTURE 

HE  Grand  Canyon  was  the  culminating  scene  of  one  of  the  most 
stirring  adventures  in  the  history  of  American  exploration. 

For  hundreds  of  miles  the  Colorado  and  its  tributaries  form  a 
mighty  network  of  mighty  chasms  which  few  had  ventured-  even 
to  enter.  Of  the  Grand  Canyon,  deepest  and  hugest  of  all,  tales  were  current 
of  whirlpools,  of  hundreds  of  miles  of  underground  passage,  and  of  giant  falls 
whose  roaring  music  could  be  heard  on  distant  mountain  summits. 

The  Indians  feared  it.     Even  the  hardiest  of  frontiersmen  refused  it. 

It  remained  for  a  geologist  and  a  school-teacher,  a  one-armed  veteran  of 
the  Civil  War,  John  Wesley  Powell,  afterwards  director  of  the  United  States 
Geological  Survey,  to  dare  and  to  accomplish. 

This  was  in  1869.     Nine  men  accompanied  him  in  four  boats. 

There  proved  to  be  no  impassable  whirlpools  in  the  Grand  Canyon,  no 
underground  passages,  and  no  cataracts.  But  the  trip  was  hazardous  in  the 
extreme.  The  adventurers  faced  the  unknown  at  every  bend,  daily — some- 
times several  times  daily — embarking  upon  swift  rapids  without  guessing  upon 
what  rocks  or  in  what  great  falls  they  might  terminate.  Continually  they 
upset.  They  were  unable  to  build  fires  sometimes  for  days  at  a  stretch. 

Four  men  deserted,  hoping  to  climb  the  walls,  and  were  never  heard  from 
again — and  this  happened  the  very  day  before  Major  Powell  and  his  faithful 
half  dozen  floated  clear  of  the  Grand  Canyon  into  safety. 


Photograph  by  LJ.  S.  Geological  Survey 

Two  OF  THE  BOATS  USED  BY  MAJOR  POWELL  IN  EXPLORING  THE  CANYON 


Photograph  by  El  Tovar  Studio 

MEMORIAL  JUST  ERECTED  BY  THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  THE  INTERIOR  TO  MAJOR  JOHN 

WESLEY  POWELL 

It  stands  on  the  rim  at  Sentinel  Point.     Upon  the  altar  which  crowns  it  will  blaze  ceremonial  fires 


T  is  possible  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  Grand  Canyon  by  lengthening 

Iyour  transcontinental  trip  one  day,  but  this  day  must  be  spent 
either  on  the  rim  or  in  one  hasty  rush  down  the  Bright  Angel  Trail 
to  the  river's  edge;  one  can  not  do  both  the  same  day.  Two  ardu- 
ous days,  therefore,  will  give  you  a  rapid  glance  at  the  general  features.  Three 
days  will  enable  you  to  substitute  the  newer  Hermit  Trail,  with  a  night  in  the 
canyon,  for  the  Bright  Angel  Trail.  Four  or  five  days  will  enable  you  to  see 
the  Grand  Canyon;  but  after  you  see  it  you  will  want  to  live  with  it  awhile. 
There  are  two  other  trails,  the  Bass  Trail  and  the  Grand  View. 

The  canyon  should  be  seen  first  from  the  rim.  Hours,  days,  may  be  spent 
in  emotional  contemplation  of  this  vast  abyss.  Navajo  Point,  Grand  View, 
Shoshone  Point,  El  Tovar,  Hopi  Point,  Sentinel  Point,  Pima.  Point,  Yuma 
Point,  the  Hermit  Rim — these  are  a  few  only  of  many  spots  of  inspiration. 

An  altogether  different  experience  is  the  descent  into  the  abyss.  This  is 
done  on  mule-back  over  trails  which  zigzag  steeply  but  safely  down  the  cliffs. 

The  hotels,  camps,  and  facilities  for  getting  around  are  admirable.  Your 
sleeper  brings  you  to  the  very  rim  of  the  canyon. 


65163°— 21— —15 


(226) 


HOT  SPRINGS  OF  ARKANSAS 

LASSEN  VOLCANIC  NATIONAL  PARK 

MOUNT  MCKINLEY  NATIONAL  PARK 

HAWAII  NATIONAL  PARK 

ZION  NATIONAL  PARK 

MID-CONTINENT  PARKS 

LAFAYETTE  NATIONAL  PARK 

THE  NATIONAL  MONUMENTS 


(227* 


THE  PROMENADE  AT  HOT  SPRINGS 


MAURICE  SPRING,  HOT  SPRINGS  RESERVATION 
This  is  centrally  located  and  hundreds  of  persons  visit  it  daily 


MAIN  ENTRANCE  TO  THE   HOT  SPRINGS  RESERVATION 

SPRINGS    OF    HEALING 


ROM  the  slopes  of  a  picturesque  wooded  hill  among  the  wild  and 

F  romantic  Ozark  Mountains  of  Arkansas  flow  springs  of  hot  water 
whose  powers  to  alleviate  certain  bodily  ills  have  been  recognized 
for  many  generations.  Tradition  has  it  that  their  curative  proper- 
ties were  known  to  the  Indians  long  before  the  Spanish  invasion.  It  is  prob- 
able that  they  were  known  to  De  Soto,  who  died  in  1542,  less  than  a  hundred 
miles  away.  It  is  tradition  that  Indian  warring  tribes  suspended  all  hostilities 
at  these  healing  springs  whose  neighborhood  they  called  "  The  Land  of  Peace." 
Government  analyses  of  the  waters  disclose  more  than  twenty  chemical 
constituents,  but  it  is  not  these  nor  their  combination  to  which  is  principally 
attributed  the  water's  unquestioned  helpfulness  in  many  disordered  conditions, 
but  to  their  remarkable  radioactivity. 

The  reservation  is  the  oldest  national  park,  having  received  that  status 
in  1832,  forty  years  before  the  wonders  of  the  Yellowstone  first  inspired 
Congress  with  the  idea  that  scenery  was  a  national  asset  deserving  of  pres- 
ervation for  the  use  and  enjoyment  of  succeeding  generations.  No  aesthetic 
consideration  was  involved  in  this  early  act  of  national  conservation.  Congress 
was  inspired  only  by  the  undoubted,  but  at  that  time  inexplicable,  natural 
power  of  these  waters  to  alleviate  certain  bodily  ills.  The  motive  was  to  retain 
these  unique  waters  in  public  possession  to  be  available  to  all  persons  for  all 
time  at  a  minimum,  even  a  nominal,  cost. 

(229) 


ONE  OF  THE  BEST  GOLF  COURSES  IN  THE  SOUTH 

DR.  NATURE'S  WATER  CURE 

OT  SPRINGS  has  much  besides  its  curative  waters  to  attract  and 
hold  the  visitor.  It  has  one  of  the  best  and  most  interesting  golf 
courses  in  the  South.  The  surrounding  country  is  romantically 
beautiful.  Many  miles  of  woodland  trail  lead  the  walker  and  the 
horseback  rider  through  pine-scented  glades  and  glens  and  over  mountain  tops 
of  unusual  charm.  There  is  tennis  for  the  young  folks,  ostrich  and  alligator 
farms  for  the  curious,  and  the  gayeties  of  life  in  big  hotels  for  all. 

Hot  Springs  is  not  merely  a  winter  resort,  as  used  to  be  supposed.  Climate 
and  conditions  are  delightful  the  year  around,  as  increasing  throngs  are  rapidly 
discovering.  It  is  above  all  a  place  for  rest  and  recuperation.  More  and  more 
winter  visitors  are  remaining  through  April  and  May,  when  the  spring  is  young 
and  glorious  and  the  baths  the  most  efficacious.  But  those  who  remain  after 
March  should  bring  summer  clothing,  as  the  temperature  then  ranges  from  65 
to  85  degrees. 

The  reservation  includes  three  mountains  and  a  lake,  and  the  tract  incloses 
all  the  forty-six  hot  springs.  Eleven  bathhouses,  some  of  them  as  complete 
and  luxurious  in  equipment  as  any  in  the  world,  are  in  the  reservation,  and  a 
dozen  more  in  the  city,  all  under  Government  regulation.  There  are  also  cold 
springs  possessing  curative  properties. 

There  are  many  hotels,  the  largest  having  accommodations  for  a  thousand 
guests,  and  several  hundred  boarding  houses,  many  at  very  modest  prices. 
Cottages  and  apartments  may  be  rented  for  light  housekeeping. 

Hot  Springs  Mountain,  from  whose  sides  flow  the  cleansing  waters,  is  about 
fifty  miles  west  by  south  from  Little  Rock. 

(230) 


Photograph  by  P.  J.  Thompson 

CRATER  OF  LASSEN  PEAK  AFTER  ERUPTION  OF  1914 

ACTIVE  VOLCANO  AT  HOME 

ONGRESS  created  the  Lessen  Volcanic  National  Park  in  August, 
1916.  A  month  later  this  volcano  was  again  in  active  eruption;  it 
is  the  only  active  volcano  in  the.  continental  United  States.  It  is 
situated  in  northern  California,  and  is  one  of  the  celebrated  series 
of  peaks,  including  Mount  Baker,  Mount  Rainier,  Mount  Hood,  Mount  Shasta, 
and  what  was  once  Mount  Mazama  (Crater  Lake) ,  in  the  Cascade  Range. 

The  region  is  one  of  extraordinary  interest.  Lassen  Peak  is  10,437  feet  in 
altitude.  Cinder  Cone,  which  showed  some  activity  a  few  years  ago,  has  an 
altitude  of  6,907  feet.  North  Peak,  Southwest  Peak,  and  Prospect  Peak  are 
prominent  elevations  in  the  National  Park. 

Other  features  of  interest  are  the  Devils  Half  Acre,  inclosing  hot  springs 
and  mud  geysers,  Bumpass  and  Morgan  Hot  Springs,  lakes  of  volcanic  glass,  and 
ice  caves.  There  are  seven  lakes,  numerous  trout  streams,  and  many  majestic 
canyons.  There  are  also  forests  of  yellow  and  white  pine,  fir,  and  lodgepole. 
"On  the  whole,"  writes  Prof.  Douglas  W.  Johnson,  of  Columbia  University, 
"it  is  difficult  to  imagine  a  region  where  the  more  striking  phenomena  of 
nature  are  developed  on  a  grander  scale." 


LASSEN  PEAK  IN  ERUPTION,  JULY,  1914 


JJlwloiiraph  by  \V .  S.  Valentine 


MONSTER  OF  MOUNTAINS 


OUNT  McKINLBY,  a  National  Park  since  1917,  is  the  loftiest  moun- 
tain in  America.     It  towers  20,300  feet  above  tide.     Its  gigantic  ice- 
covered  bulk  rises  more  than   17,000  feet  above  the  eyes  of  the 
observer.     It  is  ice  plated  14,000  feet  below  its  glistening  summit. 
This  enormous  mass   is  the  climax  of  the  great  Alaskan   Range,  which 
extends,  roughly,  east  and  west  across  southeast  central  Alaska. 

The  reservation  contains  2,200  square  miles.  Its  northern  slopes,  which 
overlook  the  Tanana  watershed  with  its  gold  -mining  industry,  are  broad  valleys 
inhabited  by  enormous  herds  of  caribou.  Its  southern  plateau  is  a  winter 
wilderness  through  which  glaciers  of  great  length  and  enormous  bulk  flow  into 
the  valleys  of  the  south.  In  this  national  park,  which  the  railroad  now  building 
by  Government  into  the  Alaskan  interior  will  open  presently  to  the  public, 
America  possesses  Alpine  scenery  upon  a  titanic  scale.  In  fact,  it  matches  the 
Himalayas;  as  a  spectacle  Mount  McKinley  even  excels  their  loftiest  peaks, 
for  the  altitude  of  the  valleys  from  which  the  Himalayas  are  viewed  exceeds 
by  many  thousand  feet  that  of  the  plains  from  which  the  awed  visitor  looks 
up  to  McKinley  's  towering  height. 


Q 


c 


(235) 


Photograph  by  H.  O.  Wood,  Hawaiian  Volcano  Observatory 

THE  CELEBRATED  "  BALLET  DANCER  "  OF  MAUNA  LOA,  HAWAII 
A  remarkable   photograph  of  the  explosion  on  the  flank  ot'Mauna  Loa  on  May  19,  1916 

HAWAII'S  SMOKING  SUMMITS 

HE  Hawaii  National  Park,  created  in  1916,  includes  three  celebrated 
Hawaiian  volcanoes,  Kilauea,  Mauna  Loa,  and  Haleakala.  "The 
Hawaiian  Volcanoes,"  writes  T.  A.  Jaggar,  director  of  the  Hawaiian 
Volcano  Observatory,  "are  truly  a  national  asset,  wholly  unique  of 
their  kind,  the  most  famous  in  the  world  of  science  and  the  most  continuously, 
variously,  and  harmlessly  active  volcanoes  on  earth.  Kilauea  crater  has  been 
nearly  continuously  active,  with  a  lake  or  lakes  of  molten  lava,  for  a  century. 
Mauna  Loa  is  the  largest  active  volcano  and  mountain  mass  in  the  world,  with 
eruptions  about  once  a  decade,  and  has  poured  out  more  lava  during  the  last 
century  than  any  other  volcano  on  the  globe.  Haleakala  is  a  mountain  mass 
ten  thousand  feet  high,  with  a  tremendous  crater  rift  in  its  summit  eight  miles 
in  diameter  and  three  thousand  feet  deep,  containing  many  high  lava  cones. 

"  Haleakala  is  probably  the  largest  of  all  known  craters  among  volcanoes 
that  are  technically  known  as  active.  It  erupted  less  than  two  hundred  years 
ago.  The  crater  at  sunrise  is  the  grandest  volcanic  spectacle  on  earth." 

The  lava  lake  at  Kilauea  is  the  most  spectacular  feature  of  the  new  national 
park.  It  draws  visitors  from  all  over  the  world.  It  is  a  lake  of  molten,  fiery 
lava  a  thousand  feet  long,  splashing  on  its  banks  with  a  noise  like  waves  of  the 
sea,  while  great  fountains  boil  through  it  fifty  feet  high. 

The  park  also  includes  gorgeous  tropical  jungles  and  fine  forests.  Sandal- 
wood,  elsewhere  extinct,  grows  there  luxuriantly.  There  are  mahogany  groves. 

(236) 


Photograph  by  the  Geophysical  Laboratory,  Carnegie  Institution 

NEAR  VIEW  OF  THE  LAVA  LAKE  OF  KILAUEA  IN  HEAVY  SMOKE 


Photograph  by  the  Geophysical  Laboratory,  Carnegie  Institution 


LAVA  FLOW  ON  FLOOR  OF  KILAUEA  CRATER,  SHOWING  CURIOUS  ROPY  FORMATIONS 


Photograph  by  Geophysical  Laboratory,  Carnegie  Institution 

THE  KILAUEA  LAVA  LAKE  CLOSE  BY.     PICTURE  TAKEN   BY  THE  LIGHT  OF  THE  LAVA  ITSELF 

DURING  A   PERIOD  OF  GREAT  ACTIVITY 


Photograph  by  Geophysical  Laboratory,  Carnegie  Institution 

NIGHT  PHOTOGRAPH  OF  THE  KILAUEA  LAVA  LAKE,  NEW  FOUNTAIN  JUST  BREAKING  THROUGH. 

PERIOD  OF  MODERATE  ACTIVITY 

(238) 


ITS  TROPICAL  GARDENS 


LTHOUGH  the  Hawaii  National  Park  includes  only  volcanic 
summits,  a  visit  necessarily  means  all  the  pleasures  of  the  dreamy 
islands.  But  the  park  boundaries  include  tropical  gardens  of  the 
utmost  luxuriance.  Tree  ferns  along  the  trails  rise  to  a  height  of 

forty  feet.      The  automobile  road  to  the  edge  of  Kilauea's 

burning  pit  is  bordered  with  fuschias,  and  nasturtiums 

climbing  over  the  trees   along   the  way  add  their  gay 

colors  to  the  scene.      There  are    groves  of   koa  trees, 

which  produce  the  Hawaiian  mahogany  of  the  glowing 

lighter  tints.     The  ohia  tree  with  its  terra  cotta  pom- 
pom  of    flowers,   the   monkey -pod   tree   with  its  pink 

feathery  bloom,  the  rich  blossoms  of  the   ginger,   and 

scores  of  other  bright-colored  flowers  on  tree  and  shrub 

paint  the  lower  levels  in  gorgeous  hues.     The  floral  pro- 
fusion of  the  islands  is  revealed  by  the  fact   that  the 

brilliant  hibiscus  appears  in  Hawaii  in  fifteen  hundred 

varieties. 

Sugar  cane,  of  course,  is  grown  commercially  on  a 

large  scale;  and  acres  upon  acres  of  pineapple  clothe 

the  valleys  with    velvety  green.      The   coconut   palm  with    its    long  slanting 

stem  and  feathery  top,  proclaims  to  the  visitor  that  he  is  in  a  strange  land. 


THE  SILVER  SWORD, 
WHICH  GROWS  ONLY 
IN  THE  CRATER  OF 
HALEAKALA 


TREE  FERNS  RISE  TO  A  HEIGHT  OF  FORTY  P'EET 


Photograph  by  Douglas  White 


EL  GoBERNADOR  IN  ZlON  CANYON 


This  monolith,  which  rises  3,100  feet  from  the  valley  floor,  is  brilliant  red  two-thirds  up,  then 

glistening  white 


ZION    NATIONAL    PARK 

HE  latest  scenic  discovery  of  America  is  the  canyon  of  many  vivid 
colors,  through  which  the  North  Fork  of  the  Virgin  River  emerges 
from  the  shales  and  sandstones  of  southwestern  Utah  to  find  its 
way  to  the  Colorado  River  and  the  Pacific.  Zion  Canyon  was 
known  to  the  Mormons  as  early  as  1861  when  Brigham  Young  designated  it 
a  refuge  for  his  sect  in  case  of  trouble.  Later  it  was  known  to  the  geologists, 
who  buried  graphic  descriptions  in  their  scientific  texts.  It  was  made  a 
national  monument  in  1909,  but  the  public  did  not  discover  it  until  1917.  Now 
it  is  reached  by  rail  and  motor,  and  a  public  camp  has  comfort  for  all  comers. 

Zion  Canyon  is  in  truth  the  Rainbow  of  the  Desert.  Its  carved  cliffs  are 
quite  as  high  and  its  conformation  not  dissimilar  to  those  of  the  Yosemite 
Valley.  But  instead  of  granite,  its  precipices  are  of  sandstone  stratified 
in  brilliant  contrasts.  Most  of  its  cliffs  are  gorgeously  red  two-thirds  up, 
and  glistening  white  above;  and  some  of  these  white-topped  monsters  are 
capped  again  in  crimson.  In  places  the  white  is  streaked  across  with 
crimson  bands  like  a  Roman  sash. 


65163° 


THE  PUBLIC  CAMP  ON  THE  FLOOR  OF  ZION  CANYON 

: 16  (241) 


OFTEN  THE  WHITE  TOPS  OF  THESE   FAIRY  CLIFFS  ARE   STREAKED  WITH  VERMILION 


Photograph  by  Willis  T.  Lee 


WHERE  THE  CANYON  NARROWS 
(243) 


Photograph  by  K.  D.  Adams 

FROM  RIGHT  TO  LEFT:  EAST  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN,  THE  WATCHMAN,  MOUNTAIN  OF  THE  SUN 


THE  THREE  PATRIARCHS — VERMILION  TWO-THIRDS  UP,  WITH  WHITE  SUMMITS 

(243) 


MID-CONTINENT  PARKS 


THE  WIND  CAVE  NATIONAL  PARK 

'T'HE  Black  Hills  of  southwestern  South  Dakota,  scene  of  Custer's  first  stand, 
*•  famous  for  many  years  for  Indian  fights  and  frontier  lawlessness,  are  chiefly 
celebrated  in  this  generation  for  a  limestone  cave  of  large  size  and  interesting 
decoration.  It  is  called  Wind  Cave  because  of  the  strong  currents  of  air  which 
alternate  in  and  out  of  its  mouth. 

The  walls  and  ceiling  of  the  various  passages  and  chambers  which  consti- 
tute the  cave  are  elaborately  covered  with  the  formations  common  to  most 
caves,  which  here  result  in  tracery  and  carvings  of  the  most  elaborate  and  sur- 
prising description.  The  park  is  also  a  game  preserve  of  unusual  merit. 

THE    PLATT   NATIONAL    PARK 

OOUTHERN  Oklahoma's  famous  curative  springs  were  conserved  for  the 
^  public  benefit  in  1906  by  the  creation  of  the  Platt  National  Park.  Sulphur 
springs  predominate,  but  there  are  bromide  and  other  springs  of  medicinal  value, 
besides  several  fine  springs  nonmineral  in  character.  Altogether  they  have  an 
approximate  discharge  of  nearly  five  million  gallons  daily. 

Many  thousands  visit  these  springs  every  year.  The  country  is  one  of 
great  charm  and  is  notable  for  its  bird  life.  The  waters  are  bottled  and 
shipped  to  many  parts  of  the  country. 

SULLYS   HILL    PARK 

HPHIS  reservation  is  on  the  shore  of  Devils  Lake,  North  Dakota,  within  two 
miles  of  the  well-known  Fort  Totten  Indian  School.     It  is  a  country  of 
much   natural   beauty  and   admirably  adapted   to   the   purposes   of   a   game 
preserve,  for  which  Congress  recently  made  appropriations. 


(244) 


Photograph  by  George  R.  King 


HE  National  Park  Service  is  represented  on  the  Atlantic  coast  by 
the  Lafayette  National  Park  in  Maine.  It  includes  the  splendid 
grouping  of  mountains  which  begins  a  mile  south  of  Bar  Harbor 
and  covers  the  southern  and  western  portions  of  Mount  Desert 
Island.  The  reservation  is  girt  with  ocean-side  drives  and  surrounded  by 
summer  resorts.  The  splendid  lake-studded  lands  which  compose  it  were 
contributed  or  purchased  by  public-spirited  citizens  and  given  to  the  Nation 
in  1916.  Congress  made  it  a  national  park  in  1919. 

Lafayette  offers  a  marked  contrast  to  the  national  parks  of  the  West. 
It  is  the  oldest  part  of  continental  America.  Its  granites  were  worn  by  the 
frosts,  the  rains,  and  the  waves  many  millions  of  years  before  the  Rockies  and 
the  Sierras  emerged  from  the  prehistoric  sea.  Its  deciduous  forests  rank  with 
the  finest  of  the  Appalachian  region. 

It  is  the  only  spot  on  our  Atlantic  coast  where  mountain  and  seashore  in- 
timately mingle;  the  rocky  coast  of  New  England  is  nowhere  nobler  than  here. 
From  the  viewpoints  of  its  crags  and  slopes  ocean  and  lake  combine. 

The  historical  associations  of  Lafayette  are  among  the  oldest  of  America, 

Champlain  having  landed  there  in  1604. 

(245) 


Photograph  6; 


MOUNTAIN,  LAKE,  AND  FIORD 


Photograph  by  George  R.  King 


WHEN  THE  TIDE  is  OUT.     THE  ORGAN 

(247) 


Photograph  by  George  R.  King 


THE  HEART  OF  LAFAYETTE  NATIONAL  PARK — JORDAN  POND, 

(248) 


JORDAN  MOUNTAIN  AND  PEMETIC  MOUNTAIN  ON  THE  SKY  LINE 

(249) 


. 


Photograph  by  H.  C.  Tibbitts 

IT  is  ONE  OF  THE  NOBLEST  FORESTS  OF  REDWOOD  SAVED  FROM  THE  AXE 

(25°) 


Photograph  by  H.  C.  Tibbitts 


A  GLIMPSE  OF  THE   BEAUTIFUL  MUIR  WOODS 


IN  THE  FOREST  PRIMEVAL 

ITHIN  ten  miles  of  the  city  of  San  Francisco,  in  Marin  County, 
California,  lies  one  of  the  noblest  forests  of  primeval  Redwood  in 
America.     That  it  stands  to-day  is  due  first  to  the  fact  that  its  outlet 
to  the  sea  instead  of  to  San  Francisco  Bay  made  it  unprofitable  to 
lumber  in  the  days  when  redwoods  grew  like  grain  on  California's  hills. 

The  Muir  Woods  National  Monument  contains  three  hundred  acres.  In- 
terspersed with  the  superb  Redwood,  the  Sequoia  sempervirens,  sister  to  the 
Giant  Sequoia  of  the  Sierra,  are  many  fine  specimens  of  Douglas  fir,  Madrona, 
California  Bay,  and  Mountain  Oak.  The  forest  blends  into  the  surrounding 
wooded  country.  It  is  essentially  typical  of  the  redwood  growth,  with  a  rich 
stream-watered  bottom  carpeted  with  ferns,  violets,  oxalis,  and  azalea. 

Many  of  the  redwoods  are  magnificent  specimens  and  some  have  extraor- 
dinary size.  Cathedral  Grove,  and  Bohemian  Grove,  where  the  famous  revels 
of  the  Bohemian  club  were  held  before  the  club  purchased  its  own  permanent 
grove,  are  unexcelled  in  luxuriant  beauty. 

This  splendid  area  of  forest  primeval  was  named  by  its  donors,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  William  Kent,  in  honor  of  the  celebrated  naturalist  of  the  Sierra,  John 
Muir.  It  is  so  near  San  Francisco  that  thousands  are  able  to  enjoy  its  cathedral 
aisles  of  noble  trees. 


KATMAFS  STEAMING  VENTS 


Copyright  the  National  Geographic  Society 

THE  KATMAI  CRATER  (UPPER)  COMPARED  WITH  KILAUEA  CRATER  (LOWER) 


O 


NE  of  the  greatest  explosive  volcanic  eruptions  of  recent  times 
blew  several  cubic  miles  of  material  out  of  Mount  Katmai,  on  the 
southern  shore  of  Alaska,  in  June,  1912.  It  left  a  great  gulf  where 
once  the  summit  reared,  and  in  its  bottom  a  crater  lake  of  unknown 
depth.  A  few  miles  away,  across  the  divide,  lies  a  group  of  valleys  from  which 
burst  many  thousands  of  vents  of  superheated  vapors.  The  greatest  of  these 
has  been  named  the  "Valley  of  Ten  Thousand  Smokes." 

This  remarkable  volcanic  region,  to  explore  which  the  National  Geographic 
Society  has  sent  five  expeditions,  has  no  parallel  elsewhere  to-day.  It  is  a  ver- 
itable land  of  wonders.  In  the  valley  the  ground  in  many  places  is  too  hot  for 
walking.  In  others  one  may  camp  comfortably  in  the  coldest  nights  in  a  warm 
tent  and  cook  one's  breakfast  on  a  steaming  crack  outside.  The  volume  is 
beyond  belief.  A  few  feet  below  the  surface,  the  temperature  of  the  vents  is 
often  excessively  high.  Once  the  Yellowstone  geyser  basins  probably  resembled 
the  "Valley  of  Ten  Thousand  Smokes,"  and  a  few  hundred  thousand  years 
from  now  this  valley  may  become  a  geyser  basin  greater  than  Yellowstone's. 

The  explosion  which  wrecked  Mount  Katmai  was  heard  at  Juneau,  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  away.  Its  dust  fell  at  Ketchikan,  nine  hundred  miles 
away.  Its  fumes  were  smelled  at  Vancouver  Island,  fifteen  hundred  miles  away. 

(253) 


Copyright  the  National  Geographic  Society 

DOWN  THE  STEAMING  SURFACE   OF  FALLING  MOUNTAIN   ROLL  MASSES  OF   ROCKS   OF  ALL  SIZES 


Copyright  the  National  Geographic  Society 

FOLLOWING  THE  GREAT  ERUPTION,  A  VAST  QUANTITY  OF  PASTY  LAVA  ISSUED  FROM  THE  VENT 

(255) 


MONTEZUMA  CASTLE 

MONTEZUMA   CASTLE   NATIONAL   MONUMENT 


remarkable  relic  of  a  prehistoric  race  is  the  principal  feature  of  a 
well-preserved  group  of  cliff  dwellings  in  the  northeastern  part  of  Yavapai 
County,  Arizona,  known  as  the  Montezuma  Castle  National  Monument.  The 
unique  position  and  size  of  the  ruin  gives  it  the  appearance  of  an  ancient 
castle;  hence  its  name. 

The  structure  is  about  fifty  feet  in  height  by  sixty  feet  in  width,  built  in  the 
form  of  a  crescent,  with  the  convex  part  against  the  cliff.  It  is  five  stories  high, 
the  fifth  story  being  back  under  the  cliff  and  protected  by  a  masonry  wall  four 
feet  high,  so  that  it  is  not  visible  from  the  outside.  The  walls  of  the  structure 
are  of  masonry  and  adobe,  plastered  over  on  the  inside  and  outside  with  mud. 

DEVILS   TOWER   NATIONAL   MONUMENT 

HPHIS  extraordinary  mass  of  igneous  rock  is  one   of  the  most  conspicuous 
•*•    features  in  the  Black  Hills  region  of  Wyoming. 

The  tower  is  a  steep-sided  shaft  rising  six  hundred  feet  above  a  rounded 
ridge  of  sedimentary  rocks,  about  six  hundred  feet  high,  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Belle  Fourche  River.  Its  nearly  flat  top  is  elliptical  in  outline.  Its  sides 
are  strongly  fluted  by  the  great  columns  of  igneous  rock,  and  are  nearly  per- 
pendicular, except  near  the  top,  where  there  is  some  rounding;  and  near  the 
bottom,  where  there  is  considerable  outward  flare.  The  tower  has  been  scaled 
in  the  past  by  means  of  special  apparatus,  but  only  at  considerable  risk. 

The  great  columns  of  which  the  tower  consists  are  mostly  pentagonal  in 
shape,  but  some  are  four  or  six  sided. 

(256) 


THE  DEVILS  TOWER,  WYOMING 


65163°— 21 17 


(258) 


THE   CHACO   CANYON   NATIONAL   MONUMENT 

HPHE  Chaco  Canyon  National  Monument  preserves  remarkable  relics  of  a  pre- 
*•  historic  people  once  inliabiting  New  Mexico.  Here  are  found  numerous 
communal  or  pueblo  dwellings  built  of  stone,  among  which  is  the  ruin  known  as 
Pueblo  Bonito,  containing,  as  it  originally  stood,  twelve  hundred  rooms.  It  is 
the  largest  prehistoric  ruin  in  the  Southwest. 

So  difficult  are  they  of  access  that  little  excavation  has  been  done. 

SHOSHONE   CAVERN  NATIONAL   MONUMENT 
A  FEW  miles  east  of  the  celebrated  Shoshone  Dam,  in  Wyoming,  is  found 
**  the  entrance  to  the  picturesque  cave   to   preserve   which   the   Shoshone 
Cavern  National  Monument  was  created. 

Some  of  the  rooms  are  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long  and  forty  or  fifty  feet 
high,  and  all  are  remarkably  encrusted  with  limestone  crystals. 

The  passages  through  the  cavern  are  most  intricate,  twisting,  turning, 
doubling  back,  and  descending  so  abruptly  that  ladders  are  often  necessary. 

COLORADO   NATIONAL   MONUMENT 

'"T'HIS  area,  near  Grand  Junction,  Colorado,  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Garden 
*•  of  the  Gods  at  Colorado  Springs,  only  much  more  beautiful  and  picturesque. 
With  possibly  two  exceptions  it  exhibits  probably  as  highly  colored,  magnifi- 
cent, and  impressive  examples  of  erosion,  particularly  of  lofty  monoliths,  as  may 
be  found  anywhere  in  the  West. 

These  monoliths  are  located  in  several  tributary  canyons.  Some  of  them  are 
of  gigantic  size ;  one  over  four  hundred  feet  high  is  almost  circular  and  a  hundred 
feet  in  diameter  at  base.  Some  have  not  yet  been  explored. 

(259) 


LEWIS   AND   CLARK   CAVERN  NATIONAL   MONUMENT 

'"T'HE   feature   of   this   national   monument  is  a  limestone  cavern  of  great 
*•    scientific  interest  because  of  its  length  and  because   of  the    number  of 
large  vaulted  chambers  it  contains.     It  is  of  historic  interest,  also,  because  it 
overlooks  for  more  than  fifty  miles  the  Montana  trail  of  Lewis  and  Clark. 

The  vaults  of  the  cavern  are  magnificently  decorated  with  stalactite  and 
stalagmite  formations  of  great  variety  of  size,  form,  and  color,  the  equal  of,  if 
not  rivaling,  the  similar  formations  in  the  well-known  Luray  caves  in  Virginia. 
The  cavern  has  been  closed  on  account  of  depredations  of  vandals. 


THE   DINOSAUR   NATIONAL   MONUMENT 

Dinosaur  National  Monument  in  Northeastern  Utah  was   created   to 
preserve  remarkable  fossil  deposits  of  extinct  reptiles  of  great  size.     The 
reservation  contains  eighty  acres  of  Juratrias  rock. 

For  years  prospectors  and  residents  had  been  finding  large  bones  in  the 
neighborhood,  and  in  1909  Prof.  Earl  B.  Douglass  of  the  Carnegie  Museum  of 
Pittsburgh,  under  a  permit  from  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  undertook 
a  scientific  investigation.  The  results  exceeded  all  expectation.  Remains  of 
many  enormous  animals  which  once  inhabited  what  is  now  our  Southwestern 
States  have  been  unearthed  in  a  state  of  fine  preservation.  These  include 
complete  and  perfect  skeletons  of  large  dinosaurs 

The  chief  find  was  the  perfect  skeleton  of  a  brontosaurus  eighty-five  feet 
long  and  sixteen  feet  high  which  may  have  weighed,  when  living,  twenty  tons 


<    'A       *       I***'  '•    •      +    '- 
L-  ^p-  ,  ^ 

*/       /•* 

A         * 

^«    Vfc 

*'-.         .A 


UNEARTHING  THE  SKELETON  OF  A  GIANT  DINOSAUR  OF  PREHISTORIC  DAYS 

(a<5o) 


RAINBOW    BRIDGE    NATIONAL    MONUMENT 

HPHIS  natural  bridge  is  located  within  the  Navajo  Indian  Reservation,  near 
*•    the  southern  boundary  of  Utah,  and  spans  a  canyon  and  small  stream 
which  drains  the  northwestern  slopes   of  Navajo  Mountain.      It  is  of  great 
scientific  interest  as  an  example  of  eccentric  stream  erosion. 

Among  the  known  extraordinary  natural  bridges  of  the  world,  this  bridge 
is  unique  in  that  it  is  not  only  a  symmetrical  arch  below  but  presents  also  a 
curved  surface  above,  thus  suggesting  roughly  a  rainbow.  Its  height  above 
the  surface  of  the  water  is  three  hundred  and  nine  feet  and  its  span  is  two  hun- 
dred and  seventy-eight  feet. 

The  bridge  and  the  neighboring  canyon  walls  are  gorgeously  clothed  in 
mottled  red  and  yellow.  It  was  first  seen  by  white  men  in  August,  1909,  when 
Professor  Byron  Cummings,  John  Wether  ill,  and  William  B.  Douglass  visited 
it  under  the  guidance  of  an  Indian  boy. 


THE  CASA  GRANDE  NATIONAL  MONUMENT 

ONE  of  the  best  preserved  and  most  interesting  ruins  in  the  southwest  has 
been  preserved  in  this  reservation,  which  is  near  Florence,  Arizona.  The 
structure  was  once  at  least  four  stories  high.  Many  mounds  in  the  neighbor- 
hood indicate  that  it  was  once  one  of  a  large  group  of  dwellings  of  some 
importance.  The  ruin  was  discovered  by  the  intrepid  Jesuit  missionary,  Father 
Eusebio  Francisco  Kino,  at  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century. 

THE    PAPAGO    SAGUARO    NATIONAL    MONUMENT 

WITHIN  this    national    monument,  which   lies   about    nine    miles  east  of 
Phoenix,  Ariz.,  and  less   than   a   dozen    miles  from  the   Apache  Trail, 
grow  splendid  examples  of   characteristic  desert  flora,  including  many  strik- 
ing specimens  of  giant  cactus  (saguaro)   and   many  other   interesting  species 
of  cacti,  such  as  the  prickly  pear  and  cholla. 

EL    MORRO    NATIONAL    MONUMENT 

EL    MORRO,  or   Inscription   Rock,  in  western   central   New   Mexico,  is  an 
enormous  sandstone  rock  rising  a  couple  of  hundred  feet  out  of  the  plain 
and  eroded  in  such  fantastic  form  as  to  give  it  the  appearance  of  a  castle. 

The  earliest  inscription  is  dated  February  18,  1526.  Historically  the  most 
important  inscription  is  that  of  Juan  de  Onate,  a  colonizer  of  New  Mexico  and 
the  founder  of  the  city  of  Santa  Fe,  in  1606.  It  was  in  this  year  that  Onate 
visited  El  Morro  and  carved  this  inscription  on  his  return  from  a  trip  to  the 
head  of  the  Gulf  of  California.  There  are  nineteen  other  Spanish  inscriptions. 

CAPULIN    MOUNTAIN    NATIONAL    MONUMENT 

CAPULIN  MOUNTAIN  is  a  volcanic  cinder  cone  of  recent  origin,  6  miles 
southwest  of  Folsom,  N.  Mex.     It  is  the  most  magnificent  specimen  of  a 
considerable  group  of  craters.     Capulin  has  an  altitude  of  8,000  feet,  rising 
1,500  feet  above  the  surrounding  plain.     It  is  almost  a  perfect  cone. 

VERENDRYE    NATIONAL    MONUMENT 

FROM  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  at  Old  Crossing,  N.  Dak.,  rises  an 
impressive  eminence   from   which    the    great   plains  west  of    the    Rockies 
doubtless  were  first  seen  by  civilized  man.     Crow-high  Butte  is  the  second 
highest  elevation  in  the  State.     It  is  conserved  by  presidential  proclamation 
under  the  title  of  Verendrye  National  Monument. 

Verendrye,  the  celebrated  French  explorer,  started  from  the  north  shore 
of  Lake  Superior  60  years  before  the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition,  passed  west- 
ward and  southwestward  into  the  unknown  regions  of  the  plains  and  the 
mountains,  and,  about  1740,  stood  upon  the  summit  of  this  striking  butte. 

(262) 


THE  NEEDLES,  PINNACLES  NATIONAL  MONUMENT 

PINNACLES  NATIONAL  MONUMENT 

HE  spires,  domes,  caves,  and  subterranean  passages  of  the  Pinnacles 
National   Monument    in   San    Benito   County,    California,    are   well 
worth  a  visit.     The  name  is  derived  from  the  spirelike  formations 
arising  from  six  hundred  to  a  thousand  feet  from  the  floor  of  the 
canyon,  forming  a  landmark  visible  many  miles  in  every  direction. 

A  series  of  caves,  opening  one  into  the  other,  lie  under  each  of  the  groups 
of  rock.  These  vary  greatly  in  size,  one  in  particular,  known  as  the  Banquet 
Hall,  being  about  a  hundred  feet  square,  with  a  ceiling  thirty  feet  high. 

(263) 


THE   TUMACACORI   NATIONAL   MONUMENT 

nnHE  Tumacacori  National  Monument  in  Santa  Cruz  County,  Arizona,  was 
•*•    created  to  preserve  a  very  ancient  Spanish  mission  ruin  dating,  it  is  thought, 
from  the  latter  part  of  the  sixteenth  century.     It  was  built  by  Jesuit  priests 
from  Spain  and  operated  by  them  for  over  a  century. 

After  the  year  1769  priests  belonging  to  the  order  of  Franciscan  Fathers 
took  charge  of  the  mission  and  repaired  its  crumbling  walls,  maintaining  peace- 
able possession  for  about  sixty  years,  until  driven  out  by  Apache  Indians. 

GRAN    QUIVIRA    NATIONAL    MONUMENT 

r~TlHE  Gran  Quivira  has  long  been  recognized  as  one  of  the  most  important 
•^  of  the  earliest  Spanish  church  or  mission  ruins  in  the  Southwest.  It  is  in 
Central  New  Mexico.  Near  by  are  numerous  Indian  pueblo  ruins,  occupying  an 
area  many  acres  in  extent,  which  also,  with  sufficient  land  to  protect  them,  was 
reserved.  The  outside  dimensions  of  the  church  ruin,  which  is  in  the  form  of 
a  short- arm  cross,  are  about  forty-eight  by  one  hundred  and  forty  feet,  and 
its  walls  are  from  four  to  six  feet  thick  and  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  high. 

NAVAJO    NATIONAL    MONUMENT 

THIS  tract  encloses  three  interesting  and  extensive  prehistoric  pueblos  or 
cliff-dwelling  ruins  in  an  excellent  state  of  preservation.     These  are  known 
as  the  Betatakin,  the  Keet  Seel,  and  Inscription  House. 

Inscription  House  Ruin,  on  Navajo  Creek,  is  regarded  as  extraordinary, 
not  only  because  of  its  good  state  of  preservation,  but  because  of  the  fact  that 
upon  the  walls  of  its  rooms  are  found  inscriptions  written  in  Spanish  by  early 
explorers  and  plainly  dated  1 66 1 . 

(264) 


THE   PETRIFIED   FOREST   OF   ARIZONA 

HPHE  Petrified  Forest  National  Monument  lies  in  the  area  between  the  Little 
•*•  Colorado  River  and  the  Rio  Puerco,  fifteen  miles  east  of  their  junction. 
This  area  is  of  interest  because  of  the  abundance  of  petrified  coniferous  trees. 
It  has  exceptional  scenic  features,  also. 

The  trees  lie  scattered  about  in  great  profusion;  none,  however,  stands 
erect  in  its  original  place  of  growth,  as  in  the  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

The  trees  probably  at  one  time  grew  beside  an  inland  sea;  after  falling 
they  became  water-logged,  and  during  decomposition  the  cell  structure  of  the 
wood  was  entirely  replaced  by  silica  from  sandstone  in  the  surrounding  land. 


•""pHIS  monument  reservation  is  situated  about  a  mile  from  the  steamboat 
•*•  landing  at  Sitka,  Alaska.  Upon  this  ground  was  located  formerly  the 
village  of  a  warlike  tribe — the  Kik-Siti  Indians — where  the  Russians  under 
Baranoff  in  1802  fought  and  wron  the  "decisive  battle  of  Alaska"  against  the 
Indians  and  effected  the  lodgment  that  offset  the  then  active  attempts  of  Great 
Britain  to  possess  this  part  of  the  country.  The  Russian  title  thus  acquired 
to  the  Alexander  Archipelago  was  later  transferred  to  the  United  States. 

A  celebrated  "witch  tree"  of  the  natives  and  sixteen  totem  poles,  several 
of  which  are  examples  of  the  best  work  of  the  savage  genealogists  of  the  Alaska 
clans,  stand  sentrylike  along  the  beach. 

(=.65) 


HOW  TO  REACH  THE  NATIONAL  PARKS 


The  map  shows  the  location  of  all  of  our  National  Parks  and  National  Monuments  and  their  principal  railroad  connections. 
The  traveler  may  work  out  his  routes  to  suit  himself.  Round-trip  excursion  fares  to  the  American  Rocky  Mountain  region 
and  Pacific  Coast  may  be  availed  of  in  visiting  the  National  Parks  during  their  respective  seasons,  thus  materially  reducing 
the  cost  of  the  trip.  Transcontinental  through  trains  and  branch  lines  make  the  parks  easy  of  access  from  all  parts  of  the 
United  States.  For  schedules  and  excursion  fares  to  and  between  the  National  Parks  apply  to  your  local  railway  ticket  office 
or  to  any  tourist  agency. 

For  informatian  about  sojourning  and  traveling  within  the  National  Parks  write  to  the  Director  of  the  National  Park 
Service,  Washington,  D.  C.,  for  the  information  circular  of  the  park  or  parks  in  which  you  are  interested. 

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WASHINGTON  :  GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE  :  1921 


